Some designs earn their place as staples - considered, consistent and enduring. The desert boot is one of them.
Simple in silhouette and rich in history, it’s a shape we’ve always held in high regard. Our version, the Woodford, takes its name from Chris’s family line and remains a mainstay in the Crown collection. Refined in its details, and crafted to honour its origins.
We’ve written before about the history of the humble desert boot, and why it had to be part of our line-up. It’s worth a read if you’re curious and a bit of context always helps. Today, though, we’re focusing on the materials themselves, and how they work with the shape we know and trust.
New to the collection: deep blue Kudu suede from C.F. Stead and rich green Horween Chromexcel
New Materials for a Crown Staple
For a boot like this, the materials need to carry their weight. Visually, functionally, and in the way they age. In the Stitchdown Collection, that means two names in particular: Horween and C.F. Stead.
Different histories, different processes, but they sit perfectly together. Two world-class tanneries producing leathers that bring out the best in this shape - with texture, depth, and character that only improves over time.
We’ve now added two new options to the line-up:
- A rich green Horween Chromexcel
- And a deep blue Kudu suede from C.F. Stead
Both are available as part of the Woodford Desert Boot range.
The materials we choose always need to fit the aesthetic and, for the Woodford, that means keeping things unlined. There’s a certain ease to the shape, and we want you to feel that the moment you put them on. No unnecessary structure - only what’s needed to hold the shape, and everything else left to the material itself.
Kudu suede from C.F. Stead - used on our original Woodford desert boots.
Why Patience Matters with Kudu
Our original desert boot suede came from C.F. Stead’s Kudu - a material we loved for its feel, its finish, and the character it adds to the boot. But in 2020, that supply came to a halt. The pandemic disrupted wildlife management in Africa, and without regular culling, the raw material simply wasn’t available.
We moved production to the equally beautiful Janus calf suede, but we always hoped we’d be able to work with Kudu again. As it slowly became available, the challenge wasn’t just getting hold of it - it was getting the right kind.
Kudu is a wild animal. Its hide tells the story of the terrain it’s moved through; scarred, scratched, and rugged. Most of the skins are too marked to use for reverse suede. It takes time, and an expert eye at the tannery in Leeds, to find the few that are suitable.
For every 200 to 300 hides, perhaps one or two make the cut. And of those, only the very finest are set aside for lighter shades like Sand. (It’s the same level of selection required for pairs like our one-of-a-kind Harlestone in Naked Kudu, which returned to our website in January.)
So we waited. for the right leather, in the right condition - and the right moment to bring it back into the Woodford.
How Kudu Suede Feels and Looks
Kudu suede has a softness that’s difficult to describe. It gives naturally, cushions easily, and feels instantly familiar. Paired with something like alpaca socks - there’s a comfort that’s hard to match.
But that softness doesn’t come at the expense of structure. As with all pairs within the Stitchdown Collection, we’ve kept the internal support discreet, just enough to hold the shape, without interrupting the natural feel of the material against your foot.
Kudu suede also performs. Thanks to the tight fibre structure on the surface, Kudu suede is naturally durable and offers a surprising level of water resistance. Underneath, the fibres open up, which gives it that signature comfort and flexibility.
A material that looks relaxed and feels even better once it’s on - just as we want the Woodford to be.
The Woodford desert boot in Horween Chromexcel. A combination that brings out the best qualities in our footwear - developing character and comfort in every step.
Horween CXL in the Desert Boot
We’ve long used Horween’s Chromexcel across the Crown range but the desert boot brings out its best qualities. Unlined, the leather moves freely. It creases, flexes, and patinates with wear, developing character with every step.
That movement comes from the way CXL is made. The pull-up effect - that tonal variation when pressure is applied - is driven by natural oils, waxes, and bark extracts used in the retanning process. And because it’s both chrome and vegetable-tanned, the reverse side of the leather is just as important as the top. Soft, breathable, and surprisingly forgiving underfoot.
As with our Kudu suede, we’ve inserted the structure into the upper, so what you feel is all natural grain. The result is a boot that wears in beautifully, and feels easy from day one.
It’s the kind of material that rewards understanding and if you’re interested in how we select and work with leathers like Chromexcel, Kudu, and others, we covered it in more depth during our visit to the Institute for Creative Leather Technologies.
Resilient crepe soles provide flexibility and comfort. Available in four edge stain options and resolable once it needs to be reinvigorated.
Staying True to the Sole
Some details don’t need reinventing. When it came to choosing a sole for the Woodford, there was really only one option. The natural crepe sole has been tied to the desert boot since its inception - flexible, resilient, and easy to resole once it’s earned enough miles.
It’s not just practical. It adds to the overall feel. Dense, layered crepe gives a sense of grounding underfoot, while inside, a combination of heel pad, memory foam, and a veg-tan leather insole moulds gradually to your foot. Over time, it shapes itself to how you walk - not the other way around.
As a finishing touch, we offer four edge stain options, or you can leave it natural for a cleaner look. It’s a small detail, but one that adds a little flourish and personal touch - something that makes the pair feel more your own.
We’re proud of every pair that leaves the workshop but this one carries a little extra weight. The Woodford desert boot is named after Chris’s family, and it reflects everything we stand for: thoughtful design, rare materials, and time taken to do things properly. These additions don’t reinvent the desert boot - they just make it even more Crown.
View the Woodford desert boot collection here