Why Japan, you ask?
A good question. Many may not be aware that we have been producing shoes in various styles under our Crown Northampton brand for the Japanese market for quite some time now. It all started when our original dance shoe designs caught the attention of some friends visiting from Japan. They immediately recognised the appeal of our styles for their region. You can read more about our Jazz collection and its Japanese following in our article here.
Through our network of distribution and brand partners in Japan, we consistently collaborate to not only introduce new styles and materials across our collections in that market, but also to uphold the traditional 'Made In Northampton' heritage that our footwear embodies. We want to blend our heritage with future designs, ensuring our styles remain true to our past while staying relevant.
We believe, when it comes to delving into the intricacies of footwear and showcasing our latest projects, there's no substitute for face-to-face interactions. That's why we were thrilled to accept an invitation to Isetan Shinjuku, one of Japan's most coveted department stores known for attracting conscientious shoppers with a keen eye for quality, fashion, and style.
The trip wasn't solely focused on Crown Northampton; we were also delighted to showcase some of our upcoming collections under our sister brand, E. Woodford & Sons, which is set to launch very soon.
This provided Will from our team the opportunity to demonstrate the craftsmanship involved in creating this collection, including hand-cutting the leather, hand-sewing, and hand-lasting the shoes. We displayed a variety of materials and even showcased some deconstructed pairs to highlight the attention to detail that might not always be apparent when looking at a fully assembled pair.
A selection of our Harlestone Hand Stitch styles was on display, complemented by limited-edition colours from the Jazz collection. Chris was available to assist with sizing and fit queries, taking measurements, and discussing the various options we offer as a made-to-order producer.
During some downtime Will and Chris were able to take in the sights and sounds of the city as well as relax and enjoy their time in such a beautiful setting. They enjoyed a traditional Japanese Onsen experience (a hot spring spa!) at Hakone, just an hour north of Tokyo, and glimpsed the majestic Mount Fuji from a cable car ride. Exploring the local cuisine adding flavour to their adventure along the way.
The main reason, (you could even say the main challenge) is all down to the availability of the leathers we offer as limited releases. We use rare and highly sought after materials, they need to be ordered months in advance and often don’t come with fixed delivery dates. This is due to the tanning processes and finishing required to make them as unique as they are. This is especially true for our Horween Leather Co. limited releases and often, the amount of leather we can get our hands on dictates how many pairs of shoes we can make. Hence the small run availability.
As is the case with most things in fashion and footwear, there’s also an element of personal taste to consider. While certain colours and finishes may appeal more to specific tastes, others receive widespread popularity. Either way, we take pride in bringing the best leathers from around the world to the heart and home of England’s boot and shoemaking, Northampton.
Some makers may shy away from working with certain leather types after taking into consideration factors like costs, the level of skill required to work with a material, the suitability of certain styles of footwear and the uncertainty that comes with working with rare materials, it can be a gamble!
Some highlights from previous offerings include…
Horween’s Buffalo Leather
This Buffalo leather is not widely available in the UK, so when we got our hands on a wider range of colours, we made them available for a limited time. We offered Ink, Green and No 8 for a few months but they're very attractive leathers so we ran out pretty quickly. If we can get our hands on it again, we’ll put them back on sale but if you managed to get yourself a pair, you’re one of the lucky ones!
C.F. Steads’ Naked Kudu Leather
During the now legendary inaugural boot and shoe lovers event ‘BootCamp’, put on by Stitchdown in NYC in 2023, we introduced four limited edition colours of C.F. Steads’ Naked Kudu leathers. These came in a ‘naked’ finish, meaning there is varied texture and an uneven natural pattern that made its way onto our sneakers, making each pair completely unique. As it’s in short supply, we only ran a limited run in a few styles of footwear. However, if you’re into it, we do still have a few belts in this material available.
Floral Embossed Shell Cordovan
The Floral Embossing on this Bourbon Shell Cordovan is exclusive to Horween and as Shell Cordovan is already a rare commodity, the embossed versions are even more so. We knew making up some sneakers in this material wouldn’t stay true to our minimal aesthetic, so instead we opted to make it into some beautiful belts. At time of writing, there’s a very limited number still available but act quick because like most of these materials, once it’s gone - it’s gone.
Horween Shell Cordovan Limited Releases
Shell Cordovan is often referred to as ‘the best leather in the world.’ If you weren’t already aware, it’s actually carefully cut from the butt of a horsehide. Working with Shell Cordovan in order to manipulate its tight fibre structure and keep its finish looking its best can be a challenge around the factory. We’re never ones to shy away from a challenge though, we love it! Seasonal releases of some of the more rare colour variations and finishes of Shell Cordovan in our Hand Stitch Collection has kind of become our ‘thing’ here at Crown Northampton. If you own a pair, we hope they serve you well and earn you compliments as you wear them in your day-to-day. Check out our page detailing all of the drops we’ve released so far here.
Our limited releases in exclusive leathers highlight our dedication to craftsmanship and quality. These distinctive and challenging materials present various issues in sourcing and crafting, adding an extra layer of the unmistakable Crown Northampton spirit to each release!
AVAILABLE NOW - LIMITED EDITION, D8 - TUMBLED SHELL CORDOVAN IN NAVY OR NO 8
A totally new finish (to us anyway!) in Shell Cordovan, two ‘tumbled’ colours make up our drop 8 release. The leather is finished, then tumbled and steamed in a tannery drum to give it a unique finish and colour. We haven’t done anything to it, no polish or shining, we’ve left it as it is and we’ll let you, our customers, handle it how you like. Available in two colours, ‘Navy’ for a muted look that will pair with a versatile array of outfits and the ever popular ‘No 8’ or ‘Color 8’ as it’s sometimes referred to, a deep burgundy colour, perfect for a more casual look. Both show depth and rich shades under different lights, making them the ideal choice for our latest limited release.
We’re also offering this drop with the option of purchasing the full ‘Deluxe Pack’ that includes everything you need to really ensure the longevity of the sneakers by caring for them using the appropriate products for the job.
]]>Before heading home, Chris, our business owner and some of our team, took a little detour by way of Chicago to visit the iconic and world-renowned Horween Leather Company tannery. We’ve been working with Horween’s leathers for a long time now but to see how the tannery operates in person was an opportunity that couldn’t be passed up.
The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905, it’s one of the world’s most highly respected tanneries and is now in its fifth generation of Horween owners. The tannery itself sits on the North Branch Chicago River, with the factory spread over five floors. Horween is best known for their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan leather offerings, both of which we’ve been using in our Classic and Hand Stitch collections for years.
John Culliton was kind enough to give us an in-depth tour around the factory, taking us through every stage of production and showing us what makes the place so special. It was a difficult experience to describe but luckily for us our photographer Alex Natt was on hand with his camera to shoot some pictures of our visit - a picture is worth a thousand words they say, here's part one of the series below.
Chris, the head honcho here at Crown, and John from Horween. Visiting Horween gave us the opportunity to get hands on and check out some leather, up close and personal.
Horween Tannery dates back to 1905 and there is no shortage of display pieces.
Skip Horween, the tannery's current owner
Tanning Pits
Rolls of various Horween leathers, some weird and wonderful bits in there. Watch out for our Dearborne range, coming soon!
One of the tanning drums at work
Skip and Nick were very kind hosts, with Skip even allowing Chris and the gang time for an interview (which will be available through our soon to be relaunched sister company E.Woodford & Sons). A big thank you to John Culliton and the Horween team for giving up their time and demonstrating the use of some really beautiful, old machinery. Most of all, a massive thank you to everyone at Horween involved in working with Crown to realise some unusual and unique requests.
Chris returned from Chicago filled with new ideas, concepts and designs and he credits the trip with providing inspiration and motivation for a lot of our new products lined up for this year. Throughout 2024, we’ll be showcasing this inspiration in fresh projects as well as our limited edition Shell Cordovans - now in their fourth year of drops! We’ve already given you some Floral Embossed Bourbon Shell Cordovan belts to kick off the year and at the end of February we’re releasing our limited edition Tumbled Shell Cordovan Harlestones.
We took plenty of photographs at the tannery and there was much leather discussion and learning, so watch out for part two!
Photography by Alex Natt.
]]>Our business isn’t possible without the skills, expertise and people on our team so we always want to put them in the spotlight. We sat down with Adrian, and quizzed him a little about his life, times and the recent move over to Crown.
So, Adrian, let’s start with the obvious, what was your first job in the trade?
Where did you start in the world of leather goods?
First job in the business, let me think, I was a landscape gardener for the council and then became unemployed for one reason or another. My friend worked at Regent Belt Company near Walgrave, just north of Northampton, about 40 years ago and he got me a job there. I was 24 at the time and I’m nearly 65 now so it was a fair while ago.
There’s not many people that can say they’ve had 40 years in the same trade…
Well, I just like doing what I’m doing really, it’s as simple as that.
What were you hired for as your first job?
At first, I cut webbing material. It comes on a roll, I pulled it to the length and chopped it with a little guillotine. I did that and moved up from there to become supervisor of cutting, y’know, running the whole cutting room. Then they asked me if I fancied trying to make samples. So I used to do that on overtime, then it went from there.
So the sewing and construction of different leather goods, you were learning that at the same time as doing your daily job, cutting the webbing and other components, right?
Yeah, it was all learnt on the job. I’d been there a while before I was made Supervisor of Cutting so obviously by then I knew how belts and things were made. I’d worked there for years by this point and picked it up around the factory. At the start, if I didn’t know how to do something, my supervisor would do it for me. Then I’d carry on from there. Then I took some stuff to him one day and he said “you’ve seen me do it enough times” so yeah, no formal training. You just pick it up. Each leather’s different. You can teach somebody how to make belts but you can’t really teach them how to make a belt, if you know what I mean? All the leathers are all different, some are thin, some are thick, you just have to do it. Bit of trial and error.
Any family in the leather trade?
Ah, loads of family. It’s Northampton, isn’t it? Back in the day everybody worked in the boot and shoe business.
Boot and shoe business indeed, you’re sort of in that part of the business even more now, how are you finding working at Crown?
Never worked anywhere like it in my life. I quite like working here. I like the way Chris does things, he’s not your average guy. Most of the leathers I’m using now, I’ve never used before. The Shell Cordovan for instance, £200 a skin! What I really love is cutting it and knowing you’ve only got one chance to get it right.
Are you doing stock or is it made-to-order like the sneakers?
Well, I’ve got 30 belts to do for next week on my job sheet today for Crown customers. We’re not running production for large quantities of stock but we prep the leather at the longest length and then we can cut it down to the right length when we get the order, so they are made-to-order like the sneakers, we can just do a bit more prep work. I’ve not really worked like this before but it makes sense given the leathers we’re using.
How do you think the leather working industry is looking today compared to in the past?
It’s dying, isn’t it? Crafts are dying out and not many youngsters are going into the boot and shoe trade. Back in the day, you could leave school, get a job in a factory and if you didn’t like it, you could walk out and get another job in another factory by the afternoon. My brother did that. Obviously, I’m going back 20-30 years or more. There was just such a demand but Crown is unusual, seems to be the only place that’s growing now.
Worst and favourite leathers to work with?
Well now I would say the worst is the kudu leather we’ve done recently.
Oh yeah, the Naked Kudu from Steads? Why would you say that’s the ‘worst’?
All the marks on it… It’s nice leather, I like it when you’ve finished the belt but when you’ve got the whole skin there, you’re just looking at it thinking “oh dear.” It’s hard to get regular pattern marks across the length of the belt. Or if I had to pick a second leather that’s tricky, hair-on leathers, they’re always a nightmare. Difficult to get a nice edge on it, you’re always tempted to try and trim it, then you end up having to hoover everywhere afterwards. I haven’t really got a favourite though… Maybe English bridle leathers? They’re nice.
Favourite bit of machinery?
Machines are an interesting one, Dave, who I work with, his favourite is the sewing machine, he was a factory mechanic so he has a way with them. No two sewing machines are the same. The older machines are easier to use. Don’t know if I have a favourite… The splitters make life so much easier, you put a bit of leather through and it makes it thinner and completely uniform and that’s so hard to do by hand. The spiral cutter is great too, so difficult to describe but they are a great thing to see working. If the plaited belts we’re making take off then we’re hoping that we can get one in here. There are new machines now where you stick a piece of leather in one end and then a belt comes out the other but they’re not a lot of fun and if it breaks then production is really held up, we like to stick to the machines we know.
Talking of leather goods, it may seem petty, but do you have a favourite item that you like to make?
Not really, hang on… (Adrian then went to rummage around in some boxes in the corner of the workshop and returned with some leather satchel bags) These bags were nice, I forgot I gave Chris the rest of these.
What’s the story behind the bags then?
They were samples for a shop down in London, they got in touch about making samples and I said I’d have a look at it, made these up for them, but they never got back to me which was a shame but I’ve given these designs to Chris now.
What’s the most unusual or strangest thing you’ve ever made?
Well, we’ve made some stuff for lingerie brands, it wasn’t kinky stuff though! Also some cuffs and chokers for the goth-type crowd. First thing I made after coming back from covid lockdown was a black leather thong, they did quite well too. We got an order for a few hundred or so of them.
Right, nothing kinky Aidy, if you say so! Back to the products and production. What’s your personal opinion on the product we’re making now? Do you wear many belts? Big fan of a nice belt?
I think I own a few but not many… I have one I wear for work which I made, of course. I have a tan, a brown and a black for trousers. And a couple for jeans, that’s all the belts I wear. Got boxes of them I’m trying to sell though!
Is there something that you want to make that you haven’t yet? What do you really like making?
We’re looking at making a little shoe polish case at the moment. There’s so many things we could make though, key holders, different wallet designs, coin pouches, keyrings. I recently went to Yarmouth on holiday and took some stuff with me; a man down there saw me messing around with some leather keyrings and he really liked them and ordered some for his shop, you never know what might take people’s fancy.
We’ve had you sampling our Shell Cordovan Floral Belt design lately for a limited edition release, what do you make of those?
Love it, I’ve never used Shell Cordovan before. I can’t believe how expensive it is and it takes six months to make! I never knew it came from a horse’s arse either until I started here at Crown. You never stop learning and I think these belts are a little bit special.
Adrian, on that note we better let you get on with some work, thanks for taking the time to answer all our questions and we look forward to seeing where we’re headed next when it comes to the wonderful world of small leather goods and belts.
Shop the Crown Northampton belts collection produced by the affable Adrian here.
And, get your hands on our limited edition Floral Bourbon Shell Cordovan belts here.
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Being the manufacturer, we have the ability to show you behind the scenes details on everything we make and do. Throughout this year, we’re focusing on materials with the aim to show you what we’re using and why we use it. Hopefully, we’ll be giving you a deeper understanding of our footwear to showcase what makes our products so unique.
What really sets us apart from other sneaker companies is the quality of materials throughout the whole shoe. We invest the same time and care in selecting materials for the interior as we do with the materials you see on our leather uppers and rubber soles.
We select our leathers based on several factors; the finish, the material properties, the tannery it comes from, how distinctive it is and the level of expertise required to work with the material.
When selecting colours and finishes for our collections we often have to take into consideration the availability and the tanning process of each leather in order to find the perfect material to include in our ranges. We also take feedback from our customers on what they would like to see, on occasion factory visitors get to handle some samples, so if you’re planning to stop by you may get a sneak preview of some of our upcoming leathers!
We love a challenge and an opportunity to show off our team’s skills so, if a material is particularly difficult to use then we won’t shy away from it! This broadens the selection of materials we can look at using and in turn, means our customers can often get something totally unmatched.
Something we hadn’t considered before this past year was the leather’s adaptability for small leather goods, like our card holders and belts. Now we have a full production line for our small leather goods, this is something we’re focusing on more and more.
When we’re looking at a new style or materials we’d like to use, we often go through an informal wear-testing period, in which members of the team take home a sample pair or two. This helps us to understand how a particular material goes through the breaking in process and allows us to assess how it might be received and worn by our customers.
As part of our wear-testing process, we try to work out how our selected materials patina and age over time. Within the team here at Crown we have different footwear philosophies, some keep their sneakers pristine and religiously care for them, others like to beat up their shoes and see the beauty in that - the same can be said for our customer base and we love to see how everyone wears and cares for their shoes differently.
Colour is key of course and whilst we sometimes prioritise other materials properties, we do take a step back and look at our colour offering across the collections from time to time, this year especially we have some really interesting colours being added to our range. We do love a white sneaker and so do our customers, but there’s many different colour treatments and tanning processes that produce some interesting results, as you’ll see later this year!
It has taken many years to build strong, meaningful relationships with the best tanneries and leather agents here in Britain and out in the wider world. After building connections based on a dedication to quality and showing our understanding of the end-to-end process materials need to go through, we now work closely with the tanneries and agents to secure the leathers and components we need. We’re always looking for opportunities to try new things and collaborate to find leathers that possess a certain set of characteristics that appeal to us with each specifically selected for our shoes.
Chris, the owner, came to own the factory premises from his father Andrew. Andrew also passed down business contacts, so some of the tanneries and other suppliers we work with have long-standing family connections to Crown Northampton. Other, newer relationships have been started based on the reputation of the tanneries and their high quality products. We also take advice from our trusted leather merchants and suppliers. So often, we work with people based on recommendation and word of mouth.
One of our focuses when partnering with new tanneries is an alignment of ethos, we always try to work with other sellers and manufacturers who care about creating high quality materials, looking out for their team members and companies with a respect for the heritage and traditions of their craft. We want to find people we can proudly collaborate with.
The Horween Leather Company was founded in 1905, it’s one of the world’s most highly respected tanneries and is now in its fifth generation of Horween owners - much like Crown! Its Chicago factory is spread over five floors and they have their own water treatment plant onsite to avoid too much environmental impact. Horween is best known for their Chromexcel and Shell Cordovan ranges, both of which we’ve been using in our Classic and Hand Stitch collections for years.
Chris Woodford visited the Horween factory in October last year and came back with lots of inspiration for this year’s Hand Stitch Shell Cordovan special drops and even some exclusive leathers just for us! There’s a lot of Horween leathers on the horizon in 2024 to be released throughout the year, so keep an eye out!
Charles F Stead & Co Ltd began in 1904 in Leeds, UK. They have specialised in suede for over 60 years and have blended modern innovation with heritage techniques to make some of the best suedes on the market. Their suedes shrink by 15-30% during their production process, creating a tight fibre structure, giving the material a special appearance and improved wear properties. This focus on high-quality even when it means profits take a hit is something we really admire here at Crown.
A & A Crack & Sons are another family owned business with strong roots in the leather industry. The patriarch of the Crack family, Ernest Henry Crack, revived the fortunes of Charles F Stead & Co tannery in Leeds, initiating a relationship between the families that endures to this day. In the 1950s, the company began building its reputation for developing their now world renown suede.
A & A Crack & Sons, however, are a leather merchant company set up in Northampton in the 1980s to serve the high-end shoemakers in the town. They are currently Horween’s only sales agents in the UK and have an exclusivity for selling leathers from HCP, Badalassi Carlo and Saphir. They’re integral to keeping us well stocked and always have interesting new leathers to show us.
We know many of our customers are already leather aficionados, yet for those who might be newer to the world of leather, here's a brief overview of what we currently have on offer.
Our Box Calf leathers have been used across Northampton’s boot and shoe industry for decades. This leather is often used in traditional welted footwear from well known men’s dress shoe factories. These leathers are chrome tanned and lightly tumbled for a slightly softer finish, they are strong and hard-wearing at 1.4-1.6mm thick. When well cared for, it stays uniform in colour across the upper.
Available In:
Colours - White, Black, Brown, Navy
Collections - Classic Sneaker, TL Sneaker
Although our Veg Tan leather is not commonly used in footwear, it is used by people in the hand-making trade, primarily handbags! Vegetable tanning has a lower impact on the environment as it's a more natural process than harsher chrome tanning techniques. It’s a difficult leather to care for and maintain as it can be very sensitive to chemicals but the colour changes and the way it gains patina over time creates a really unusual and eye-catching sneaker.
Available In:
Colours - Off White, Black, Grey
Collections - Hand Stitch
As one of the most sought after leathers in the world, to say Horween’s Shell Cordovan is special would be an understatement. It’s a six month process to create this leather from start to finish and due to production limitations, it’s not widely available. Shell Cordovan rolls rather than creases due to its incredibly tight fibre structure, it’s surprisingly smooth to the touch and can be polished to an impossibly high-shine.
Read more about Shell Cordovan, our limited releases and the products we offer in this leather here.
We use Horween’s Chromexcel, Cavalier and Essex leathers in our Classic and Stitchdown collections. Cavalier and Chromexcel leathers are very similar, using both chrome and vegetable tanning processes as well as being ‘hot-stuffed’ with waxes that are solid at room temperature. The Essex leathers are slightly different, using similar chemicals to Horween’s Shell Cordovans and leaving off the waxy finish.
Available In:
Colours - Black, Natural, No 8, Brown, Forest Green, Ink, Sunflower
Collections - Classic Sneaker, Hand Stitch, Stitchdown
Another Horween material, our Buffalo leathers are supple and pliable yet resilient. This is the only leather available in both our Classic and Hand Stitch collections and for good reason, it is incredibly versatile and looks great even when it’s not cared for particularly well!
Available In:
Colours - Tan, Brown, Black, No 8, Grey, Green
Collections - Hand Stitch, Classic Sneaker
A lovely leather from Charles F Stead & Co Ltd, and according to them, their favourite from their own range; Janus Calf Suedes are used across our Jazz, Classic and Stitchdown collections. Carefully selected calf skins are treated to create a firmer than standard suede side and a full grain aniline reverse.
Available In:
Colours - Black, Brown, Sand, Snuff, Grey
Collections - Sneaker TL, Stitchdown, Jazz
Our red Scottish deer suede hails from way up in Barrhead, Scotland. It’s a town just outside of Glasgow where the Barrhead Kid Co. tannery is located and has been for many years. We work with them on the navy, black and brown suedes in our Hand Stitch Collection.
Available In:
Colours - Black, Brown, Navy
Collections - Hand Stitch
So, as you may have already guessed, 2024 is going to be a big year for us when it comes to materials.
The building and changing of our selection of leathers and suedes is a never-ending process. We love to experiment and we aren’t afraid to swap things out if we think it improves the overall product and wear experience. We regularly review our materials selection and drop and add-in different options.
We couldn’t do what we do without our relationships with our leather agents and tanneries, so you’ll see a spotlight shone on several of these connections throughout the year and we’ll take a deep dive into some of the wonderful materials on offer.
Keep in the loop for what’s coming up in 2024 by joining our mailing list and keep checking our website and socials, you’ll see some more material updates coming very soon!
]]>Belts, however, were a little outside our area of expertise. The idea for a range of belts to match our sneaker collections has been bounced around the factory for a few years but we simply had too many questions. Is it possible to use the same leathers as we use in our shoes? What buckles should we use? Which lining leathers are best? What machinery is required? Can we do it in a way that fits in with our already established business model? And most importantly; how do you actually make a really good belt? Before now, we didn’t have the time to dedicate to belts and if we can’t do something right, we don’t believe we should do it at all. It wasn’t financially viable to offer belts on a made-to-order basis unless we did it all in house and we didn’t have all the pieces of the puzzle available to us.
However, recent events have answered all of our questions without the need to move our focus very far. Northampton is a small town, where, as with the rest of the UK, manufacturing is a dying art. Unfortunately, this has led to many heritage companies closing their doors over the last few years. One such company was a well-respected, local belt manufacturer located 20 minutes from our doorstep. Chris, our owner, had worked with them for some time and when he heard the news of their imminent closure, asked if there was anything he could do to help. Chris realised this might be an opportunity to invest in these skilled belt makers and so now Crown has its very own belt production line.
Adrian (pictured left), our new head of belt production, has worked in the belt trade for over 40 years. He agreed to join Crown Northampton after visiting our factory to watch our team at work and see the pride we take in our time-honoured techniques and method of crafting. Adrian really liked our unusual way of doing business and even brought along two of his old colleagues, Kiwi (centre) and Dave (right).
Setting up belt production was the first order of our new belt business. Most of the machinery was already available to us but we had to source some unusual parts in order to craft belts the way we wanted to. Adrian helped us to source new materials, specifically for belt making and his expertise was invaluable in setting up this new side of the business.
Once a production line was established, Chris and Adrian set about creating a line of belts for Crown, designed to fit harmoniously with our minimalist aesthetic and showcasing the quality of materials and craftsmanship that goes into their production. Chris dealt mainly with the design side of this process while Adrian advised on the technical aspects, answering many of the questions that had previously held Crown back from belt making in the past. Adrian was able to offer insight and expertise, like helping to design our Shell Cordovan belts which are stitched together in the traditional way, with a butted seam.
After a long and challenging set up, we can now offer a belt to match your sneakers, all from the same skin of leather. We have the privilege of saving another artisan craft from the brink of extinction in Northampton, while saving a few jobs too.
As with everything we make at Crown, we want to make the best. This means sticking to more long-established, historic ways of making, without cutting corners or costs. Adrian was really impressed by this approach and felt it offered him a better way of doing what he loves. We hope you like our new products as much as the guys that make them, as Adrian says, “it’s great to make proper belts again.”
So, we’ve welcomed a few new faces to our team in order to make belts work as a viable part of the business. Our shoes will always be our main focus but belts (and hopefully some other small leather goods in the future) are part of the natural evolution of Crown Northampton.
Shop the belts collection here.
Made-to-order versus mass production.
We’ve had a bit of a full-circle journey here at Crown Northampton, or at least the Woodford family that own the business have. Back in the days of yesteryear, Ernest Woodford, our current owner’s great-grandfather, would actually make individual pairs of shoes for his local customers.
After a couple of generations and with demand growing, the family upscaled the business and started producing high volume orders for department stores looking to stock British made footwear. This led to a more typical shoe factory set up, larger quantity orders of styles made in bigger batches, with the factory floor staff working on a repetitive production line to cut and assemble the product in time to be shipped out as a wholesale order.
Fast forward a few years to the present day and the business has changed, with a direct to customer approach, made possible by selling online - we’re proud to be a made-to-order business. There’s several reasons this is a benefit in the modern era, both for customers and our people making the shoes.
These days, individual pairs can be seen making their way around the factory, racks filled with varieties of colours and styles. Each one purchased by a customer eagerly awaiting their arrival, anticipating that first wear and the journey to making them truly their own.
For our team, it’s an opportunity to change things up a bit, by having batches containing different styles, they never know what might be next and this allows working with some really unique leathers, as well as using the many skills in their repertoire rather than doing the same thing over and over.
Quality product, made for you.
If we needed another motivation for making our products made-to-order, we have it; this model gives us complete control over the quality of the product we put out. While all of the processes that go into a pair of made-to-order shoes do take time, it does mean that the skill and experience of our people goes into each and every pair. We work with machines, not robots here at Crown.
Before our people even receive your order, the work has already begun, sourcing materials and testing different shoe constructions is often an exciting but demanding task. We source the best materials from across the globe in order to offer them to our customers. Our approach to shoe design isn’t simple either, our product direction is generally based around heritage construction methods with a minimal aesthetic being the desired outcome. We also don’t shy away when a material is difficult to use, in fact, it’s the exact opposite; using leathers that are typically tricky is an engaging challenge. It makes us want to do it more, and we do. It’s hard to convey just how special some of the leathers we use are, but if you’ve ever broken-in some of our shell cordovan sneakers and made them your go-to daily shoes, you’ll know what we mean.
2023, what a year.
We could go on all day about the business and the product, but what makes doing all of this special, is you, our customers. By joining us on our journey as a company you become a part of what we’re doing here, we’re working to preserve skill sets that are otherwise fading out, our main motivation for being in business in the first place is to create jobs that people enjoy and love. In 2023, we’ve had an eventful year, from launching new styles like the Everdon, offering limited edition leathers like the Naked Kudu, to our first major trade event at Stitchdown in NYC back in October. The team has grown again this year and we’re all excited to see what the next 12 months bring.
For now though, and to avoid this blog being a long old ramble, all that is left to say is a big thank you.
]]>This week, we’ve asked our go-to stylist, Alex Hall, to offer his musings on styling white sneakers year-round. Alex is a stylist working with brands such as The Real McCoys & Sebago. As well as being a trained tailor he also lectures at London College of Fashion. So, for what is hopefully the first in a number of style led features here on the blog, we’ll hand you over to Alex.
In the shift from summer to the embrace of autumn, I’m exploring a refined style journey to challenge the presumption that white sneakers should be confined to warmer days.
When navigating the switch from British summer to colder weather, our wardrobes should seamlessly adapt to the changing seasons. With the transition from lightweight summer attire to the warmth of cosy knits and winter coats, one exception stands out—the enduring white sneaker. Its unmatched versatility challenges conventional seasonal norms, showing that authentic style knows no boundaries.
Exploring the year-round allure of white sneakers during colder seasons, it’s easy to dispel the scepticism surrounding subjecting our treasured, pristine white Crown kicks to the trials of mud-strewn paths and urban sludge. Join me as I delve into style-driven justifications for the perpetual relevance of white sneakers, extending their supremacy beyond the sun-soaked days of summer.
DENIM FOR CASUAL CHIC
With the crisp air of autumn settling in, white sneakers can harmonise with your favourite denim jeans, creating a blend of comfort and chic. Opt for timeless indigo hues, pairing them with a Shetland style knit sweater. Upgrade the ensemble with a tweed tailored overcoat, effortlessly injecting a breath of freshness that navigates the delicate balance between casual ease and sophisticated style.
ELEVATING CHINOS WITH WHITE SNEAKERS
Extending their influence beyond casual jeans, white sneakers find perfect synergy with earthy-toned chinos in shades of olive, navy, or khaki. This pairing exudes understated sophistication, ideal for drinks down the local pub or a leisurely winter stroll. Layer a dependable vintage military M65 “jungle jacket” and shawl neck sweater over a button-down shirt for a confident finish, striking the perfect equilibrium between comfort and style.
MODERNISING TRADITIONAL TAILORING
In an unexpected turn, white sneakers infuse modernity into traditional tailoring, breathing new life into classic aesthetics. While black or brown sneakers should take centre stage with a two-piece “lounge suit”, white sneakers can still carve their niche in tailoring, particularly when artfully paired with textured materials such as corduroy or seersucker, as illustrated in the image above. Alternatively, they can effortlessly enhance a classic herringbone sportcoat and dark grey flannel trousers (with a 1 ¾ inch turn up would be my recommendation) just to soften the trouser shape a little.
There really is no right or wrong when it comes to styling white sneakers, their versatility is unmatched and I’m always fascinated by how people incorporate white sneakers into their different wardrobes.
Choosing white sneakers for winter signifies more than a fashion choice; it's an acknowledgment that elegance can harmonise with the unpredictability of the season. In the subtle scuffs and stains, showcase the evidence of the lived-in, adventurous spirit of your footwear - a quiet rebellion against pristine expectations that adds a touch of authenticity to your winter style.
Hopefully some of the above reflections have proved useful when looking at your own wardrobe, you can shop Crown’s selection of white sneakers on the link here.
Check back soon and don’t forget to subscribe to the mailing list at the bottom of the site in order to be kept up to date on latest features, limited releases and product news.
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For all of the people who’re already on our mailing list, you’re reading this blog first, ensuring you’re one step ahead of all those late-adopters who are yet to sign up to our wonderful weekly newsletter. So if you’re interested, we suggest you get yourselves organised and pre-prepped for the launch and get in there at 6pm GMT on the dot!
So, what have we got for you this time around? First up, there’s the luscious Amaretto Cordovan, perfectly befitting a pre-Christmas release. Horween’s Amaretto is a rich mid-brown tone with a subtle hint of amber. When the light hits that shiny, smooth cordovan surface at the right angle it is quite simply beautiful.
To accompany this liquor inspired colourway, we have the unusual Natural Unglazed Shell Special. For many, ‘unglazed’ is not a term you'll be accustomed to hearing in relation to Horween’s Shell Cordovan; it simply means the shell doesn’t undergo the final processes that give cordovan its usual shiny, glossy top coat. Instead, it has a matte finish without the high shine. Rest assured, if cared for correctly over time, Natural Unglazed will develop that signature luxurious texture.
With an unglazed shell, you can also expect the patina process to develop a lot faster, in a manner that’s personal to your daily wear routines. This finish is for those who like to experiment and appreciate the unfolding journey of natural materials.
As with all Shell Cordovan from Horween, expect both of these colours to deepen with wear and care, and we encourage you to ‘Embrace the Patina’.
If you haven’t already, sign up to our mailing list here. And to all of you - good luck!
Chris chose the Woodford Desert Boot as his standout favourite for this people and product feature. Perfect for both casual and formal wear, Chris is pictured here in our Sand Janus Calf suede with toffee soles.
So Chris….we’ve been meaning to get together for quite some time, pleased the stars have finally aligned and we have managed to carve out some time in our busy schedules to catch up.
Thanks for inviting us down to your place in central London; we’re in late summer, early Autumn and the knitwear is about to come out for the year. With that, we wanted to get your view on the state of affairs when it comes to all things brand and knitwear. Here’s a few questions to kick us off that hopefully will give our readers a bit of an insight into you as a person and Malloch's the brand…
Let’s start with you personally, what’s your background? Has it always been about knitwear?
I’m from a graphic design background – I studied at Goldsmith’s which was very art centric so my design practices and learning were very open. However, I always veered towards graphics and visual communication. Around 2012, I started getting more into fashion, contributing to blogs and magazines and going to men’s fashion weeks in London, Milan and Paris. I then got thrown into the deep end; helping co-found and launch a fashion brand with a friend of mine. That’s where I learnt everything from sampling, fabrics and trims, manufacturing and production, marketing and sales. We had a few Japanese stockists like Beams and Isetan, so it was quite a new and exciting experience.
Unfortunately I got burnt out from the experience and took some time off before being head hunted to be the brand manager for a fashion brand. Throughout that time I still did graphic design on the side and have been getting back into that more and more the past few years – running alongside Malloch’s launch and slow growth.
What was your first foray into the knitwear business? Was it an emotional connection with a super soft and cosy jumper that you slipped on as a child? Or perhaps you remember the feel of a parents jumper during a soft embrace? Or… do you just like a nice knit?
After my time working for other fashion brands, I felt like I wanted to do my own brand – and being excited, I wanted to do a full-look brand with everything. I quickly told myself to calm down and start with one main product category, choosing knitwear as my main focus. I do like knitwear, and my love for it has grown. I remember my dad and grandad wearing very classic styles which made an impression on me, but I always appreciated style.
It’s a simple one - favourite piece of knitwear?
Simple question, but a tough one to answer. I’d have to say a chunky roll neck – the Malloch’s Newman Roll Neck. It’s cosy, comfortable, and the roll neck adds that extra layer.
Chris pictured here wearing our Off-White Veg Tan Harlestones in his home workspace where he heads up all things Malloch’s.
With Malloch's, you pretty much do everything yourself, is there any area of the business that you particularly enjoy more than another?
Yes, I do most of it – apart from the actual knitting. Although I’m keen to get an industrial knitting machine so I can start making my own samples and pieces. That will be going a lot deeper into the whole business and process. I probably enjoy the photoshoot side of things most; planning shoots and being there on the day; working with photographers and models.
It’s also exciting planning new pieces or choosing new colours, imagining the response of customers once they’re released and how the garments become part of people's style and wardrobe. I’m a real believer in complementing rather than competing with other brands, as the customer can always choose what works for them, but they shop around and build their own style and taste.
If there’s one thing you’ve learnt on your journey with Malloch's as a brand, perhaps a single nugget of wisdom you’d share, what would it be?
I’ve learnt a fair few things before Malloch’s, as well as during my time with Malloch’s. I’m actually quite passionate about hearing people’s business ideas and always try to encourage them to do it, or at least start, so you don’t end up with any regret. I’ve learnt that in this world you need to put budget aside for marketing, so that’s one thing I’d go back in time to tell myself actually; “make sure you put enough cash toward marketing”. I didn’t back then, it was all product focus and I’ve been growing organically since.
Okay enough of the reflection now, how about the future.
What’s in store for Malloch's customers? Any new products on the horizon? Any brand collabs we should look out for?
I have a few things in mind – but can’t quite say anything yet as they’re only ideas and need work on them. Collaborations are on the cards as I’d love to work with British brands / manufacturers to champion their craftsmanship. Although I’ve always wanted to expand Malloch’s into other product categories such as outerwear and denim (I love both, and have first-hand experience working in those areas). But the reality is that might be a few years down the line.
In terms of new products, I have some nice new scarves this season actually which I’m excited about. They’re a merino/cashmere blend. Plus, the long awaited arrival of our Robert Knitted Overshirt. Plus a new all-round season jumper called the Preston.
Right, I think we’ve grilled you enough for one blog. Thanks again for having us down and taking the time, we’re big fans of Malloch's here at Crown and some of the team are often found enjoying a cosy knit from your collections! We’re especially enjoying the new colours in the shaggy dog shetland jumpers and I think Ben from our marketing team has his eyes on a knitted overshirt. Best of luck with everything in the future and we hope you enjoy your Crown Northampton Woodford Desert Boots.
For our readers out there, if you’re looking for a seasonally appropriate garment to ward off the winter chills, check out the Malloch's website here. As ever we love to champion ‘Made In UK’ brands and we’ll be continuing the series for the foreseeable, if there’s a brand you think we should connect with then let us know and we’ll be sure to get right on it.
Don’t forget to sign up to the Crown Northampton newsletter at the bottom of the site to be updated on all things sneakers, future people & product features and much much more.
]]>So what are the reasons behind increasing our order delivery times?
Materials: Due to the selection of premium materials we offer, which are in fact, some of the finest materials in the world, there is often limited availability and only so much to go around. Add to this the management of delivery logistics as well as the impact of global events, it’s a tricky business trying to ensure we have all of the materials that make-up our products. We do our best to try and keep on top of our stock levels to ensure nothing runs out but sometimes, it’s tough!
Staffing: Good people are hard to come by, and never has that phrase been more accurate than when we look at the shoe industry. As we grow, we are always looking for people either with shoemaking experience or the passion and willingness to learn what’s become a dying trade. We are very fortunate to be based within the heart and soul of the shoemaking world of Northampton, where several generations of shoemaking families often work side by side in the same factory. But in reality, the younger generations, who once would have been funnelled into the local shoe making trade in years gone by, are looking for opportunities in other sectors due to a myriad of social and economic concerns. There are still many great shoemakers in Northampton though, and we’ve got some interesting plans to try and bolster those numbers in the future!
Skills: A lot of the skills that go into making our products are only possible to learn on the job and through experience. And this takes time and training. Part of our core brand ethos is longevity and continuity, which is extremely important when it comes to the preservation of skills and trades within shoemaking. At Crown Northampton, we’re trying our best to do our bit and keep the art of hand making shoes in our town and county alive, with the hope it will continue long into the future. As we’ve already said, this takes time. But we’re getting there.
Every Order. Made-to-Order: Made-to-order footwear takes longer to produce due to the nature of individually producing each pair of shoes for each and every customer. This slow, considered handmade approach, as opposed to fast, machine made mass production has a certain challenge to it as well as charm in the unique skills that are required. The reality of individual made-to-order footwear is that it simply requires more patience. We’re aware that once you’ve made your order you want the finished product on your feet asap! But some things shouldn’t be rushed, so we’re adjusting our timelines accordingly. We are confident that when you receive your product, you will feel it was worth the wait as it was made exclusively for you.
Communications: We do our best to communicate with all of our customers as quickly and efficiently as possible. As we’ve grown, so have your questions and enquiries, and subsequently, so has our customer services team, which has more than doubled in the past 12 months. We’re not a ‘next day shipping’ business and our traditional made-to-order approach does bring its own set of unique challenges. However, strong customer service interaction is at the core of what we do, as without all you guys, Crown Northampton couldn't be what it is today. In some of our steepest growth periods, we’re aware that we’ve sometimes fallen short on updates and the speed of communication we strive to offer. We genuinely care about keeping you all adequately informed, and we’re continually working behind the scenes to improve customer communications through simplified processes.
Ultimately, we want to be upfront, honest and transparent with all our new and existing loyal customers. As a brand, we didn’t want to put out a generic email about our delivery times increasing, we wanted to openly and honestly explain the reasons behind our thinking. Hopefully, you can then understand where we’re coming from and importantly, what we really stand for as a company. If you’re an existing customer or future customer of Crown Northampton, you’re on this journey with us and you’re a part of what we are building. We thank you for your patience, appreciate you joining us, and thank you for choosing Crown Northampton.
Made-to-order delivery time is now 15 weeks across all collections.
We aim to honour our 9-12 week delivery schedule for all outstanding orders, though we're slightly behind. We're committed to limiting any additional delays and ensuring you're informed. Your understanding as we work to expedite your order is greatly appreciated.
If you have any questions regarding your order and the information above, please contact our customer services team on info@crownnorthampton.com and they will be happy to help you.
Thanks again for your patience and for continuing to be our customers on this journey.
Crown Northampton Team
]]>Words like ‘limited edition’ or ‘special material drop’ always tend to stir up some excitement amongst shoes and sneakers lovers on the lookout for exclusive, one-off purchases that will allow them to feel extra special in the knowledge that they’re wearing something unique and individual. Words like ‘Naked Kudu’ could also get some hot under the collar, but the less said about that, the better.
However, there’s nothing rude or naughty about the term ‘Naked Kudu’, so don’t let your mind or imagination take you there - Please don’t. The true definition of naked when used in relation to leather is where the material has gone through all relevant tanning and dyeing processes, with the surface of the leather remaining untreated.
Why leave the surface untreated? Because a naked surface highlights any natural blemishes, scars and imperfections that the hide picked up through its life journey on the African plains. As opposed to concealing them to create smooth, uniform grain. This specific characteristic of showcasing the hides anomalies is a crucial Crown Northampton way of working when selecting interesting materials. This chosen direction, therefore, sets us aside from most other footwear brands, where the more awkward and technically difficult a material is to work with, the more we want it.
The absence of surface finishing also allows for a very soft handle with subtle pull-up properties, all whilst remaining highly durable, making it the perfect choice for footwear production. Expertly tanned and processed by CF Stead in Leeds, England. The end result. Authentic, natural beauty, blemishes and all, with a completely unique appearance across the range that brings unavoidable individuality.
As a brand, we have a history of working with different finishes of kudu from English tannery CF Stead due to the hardy yet soft and luxurious properties that kudu brings. A highly respected tannery, CF Stead produces some of the world’s best materials used in footwear and small leather goods. Stead’s finishing processes have been honed and perfected with over a century of history and heritage to draw from. At Crown Northampton, we only work with the best in their field, and CF Stead falls into that category.
For this special limited edition drop, originally shown when we attended the recent Stitchdown Boot Camp event in New York, there are 100 pairs in total. Spread across four Naked Kudu colours with only 25 pairs available in each. The different shades form a complementary colour palette to include Nutmeg, Gaucho, Chocolate Truffle and Snuff.
These colours can be ordered in four of our key styles. Two from our Classic Sneaker Collection - Overstone and Overstone Hi, and two from our Hand Stitch Sneaker Collection - Harlestone and Everdon
To pick your favourite Naked Kudu colour and sneaker style combination - Shop here.
And to wrap things up, some competition news.
Stitchdown Boot Camp Competition Winner
For those who attended the Stitchdown Boot Camp event in New York, we offered the chance to win a pair of sneakers in these new limited edition materials by entering our competition. The lucky winner was Dan Knauth, who has selected a pair of Overstones in the Chocolate Truffle. His pair are now being made to order in our Northampton factory. Congratulations Dan!
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As is generally the case when planning bold and exciting new product additions at Crown Northampton. The initial idea is conceived over a casual chat on the factory floor. Then, not much more is said, and most of the time, not much more is done as it's just an idea at that point that we decide to go with or shelve for the time being. However, on those rare special occasions where a genuine creative spark is formed and the embers slowly start to burn, that's when it all starts to get real, and we know we could be on to something.
The starting point for the Hand Stitch Collection came straight from the top when our founder, Chris Woodford, drew inspiration from our recent inclusion on the Rose Anvil YouTube channel, where our Overstone Classic Derby Sneaker was chopped in half, put through various tests, then compared against several other premium minimal white sneakers currently available on the market.
The Overstone Derby Sneaker In All White Box Calf Leather
The run down by Rose Anvil was a bit like Top Gear (a long-running car programme in the UK for those of you who are unaware), but for minimal white sneakers, where each sneaker faced off against all others in versus battles, and there could only be one that was victorious! Not quite as tense and hyped up as has just been explained, but it was quite exciting.
Our Overstone in All White Box Calf went on do the business over the rest of the competitors, and came out on top as the 'Best Overall White Sneaker'. So we basked in our glory for a few seconds, then set to work planning how we could raise the bar even further and take our sneakers to the next level.
The Harlestone Derby Sneaker In Off White Veg Tan Calf
As nice as it was being recognised for our top-tier craftsmanship, the Rose Anvil project gave Chris an idea. That idea was to design and create the best sneaker on the market, with the best materials possible, the best construction, at an honest and fair price to the end consumer - All wrapped up in local tradition and time-honoured construction.
The as yet, unnamed new sneaker collection then had some solid foundations to build on and could start to take shape.
And that's right where we started, with the shape and last. Chris knew he wanted to use a Lactae Hevea sole unit, as he'd heard good things and had taken a fancy to it, so in order to use this sole, we had to start from the sole up. This meant working with a last that would fit to the Lactae Hevea sole unit, which we then adjusted and trialled until we were happy with the overall fit and balance of the sneaker.
The way in which the above developmental stage was explained sounds quick and straightforward, but in reality, it was pretty long and involved several stages of back and forth with the last, last makers in England - Spring Line. Specifically their master last maker - Michael James.
Now saying that this process took a long time is not a criticism of Spring Line or Michael - Far from it. It actually highlights the design and development time required when starting a shoe from scratch and the necessary level of skill and detail. It's worth noting that this would have taken far longer had it not been for our location in the heart of the shoemaking town of Northampton, with Spring Line just a ten minute journey away.
Famous Spring Line Yellow Lasts & Last Made Hand Stitch Shoe Trees
Every time we needed an adjustment to the last, we took it directly to Michael, who expertly shaved and filed down the areas we asked him to, and then the last was returned to us so we could last it and test the new shape. It was only after multiple trips to Spring Line and numerous shaving sessions by Michael, that we were happy to sign off the overall shape and we could go on to have our master last created.
With the last part taken care of first, as it should be, we then moved on to developing and perfecting the upper. We already knew that we wanted to lead with a traditional derby silhouette, as it's generally the most accessible and popular style due to the pattern's open-faced, adjustable lacing.
As we were aiming for the very top with this collection, we consciously decided to incorporate as many deep Northampton roots as possible, so we leaned into Northampton-made welted dress shoes for the overall direction and design cues. This meant high-quality construction, traditional, time-honoured details, top-level finishing and, of course, resoleable capabilities when required. From this moment on, we funnelled all of our thoughts into creating, what has been described as the 'Highest Quality Dress Sneaker In The World' - Weston Kay from Rose Anvil's words, not ours.
Cork Filled Harlestones Prepped & Drying Ready for Lactae Hevea Soles
We added cork filler to the sole to offer comfort and stability, we used oak bark stiffeners and counters for solid structure, we french bound the edges of the entire upper to highlight traditional details, we specifically designed a sleek low profile silhouette in line with dress shoes, we applied discreet branding so the quality did the talking, and we signed off with a hand-stitched double stitch to the vamp and dog tailed heel, that is applied to the upper individually by hand with a chunky needle and thread.
These carefully curated details were our tribute to the fine Northampton welted dress shoes that followed before us. The end result was a uniquely Crown Northampton iteration of casual dress shoe elegance - The Harlestone Hand Stitch Derby - The Ultimate Dress Sneaker.
The entire process from inception to completion, took around two years of design, trialling, testing and perfecting.
The Ultimate Dress Sneaker In Bourbon Horween Shell Cordovan
The Harlestone, named after the finest forest in Northampton, Harlestone Firs, went on to receive its own accolades and has rightfully been recognised within the industry and by customers alike for setting the benchmark when it comes to hand made minimal sneakers and the more recent dress shoe category.
This is a true testament to retaining traditional processes within shoemaking, whilst working to a set of ideals and core beliefs that were set centuries before when shoemakers always strived for the highest, long-lasting quality that money could buy.
Like a fine wine, we gave the Harlestone Derby time to breathe once it was out in the open. Reserving the very best materials for the Hand Stitch Collection, we opened the range with a selection of the finest veg tan calf, Scottish Deer Suede and an offering of Horween's highly revered Shell Cordovan. Further additions to the range have included Buffalo Leather from Horween which displays a uniquely natural grain, and limited edition numbered drops of rare Shell Cordovan colours that are notoriously hard to source.
But we couldn't leave the Harlestone on its own forever, as it needed at least one partner to be considered a proper collection. That process started after an impromptu lunch break experiment in the factory carried out by long-standing Crown Northampton team members Lee and Kerry.
The blueprint for the newest addition to the Hand Stitch Collection was conceived, and design and development for the Everdon Wholecut Mid Boot could begin.
Hand Stitch Details Applied With Needle & Thread
The Everdon followed the same design detail and direction as the Harlestone that came before it, with all of the same internal and external materials and workings, as well as being fitted to the same last for collection continuity.
With a Derby and now a Wholecut added to the collection, traditional style and dress shoe lineage was retained. The main difference between the Harlestone and the Everdon was to the upper, which for the Everdon, is cut in a single piece to create a wholecut design, which is a notoriously difficult pattern to cut and fit. Although, with the Hand Stitch concept and template already established, the Everdon design time and final sample sign-off was significantly reduced compared to the Harlestone, and the new style addition organically flowed towards completion.
The Everdon Wholecut Mid Boot In A Selection Of World Class Materials
What will the next addition to the Hand Stitch Collection look like? Only time, and fateful factory moments, will tell.
You can shop the full Crown Northampton Hand Stitch Collection here.
For a more detailed, and literal, look inside the Everdon Wholecut Boot. Watch the comprehensive Rose Anvil dissection below.
]]>Members of our talented factory team will be on-show in our transported workshop, so you can drop by our booth to get a closer look at our hand-lasters as they bring the shoe-making process to life.
There will also be slots available for a lucky few to come and try their hand at sewing a welt, under the direction and guidance of our experienced team of course. If you’re interested in giving it a go, be on the lookout for further information on how to book your slot.
We will have a full sizing run available, so you can try on our made-to-order collections and find your perfect fit before placing your order online. We will have members of our factory-based customer service team available at the counter to answer any questions you may have about materials, size, fit and style. So if there is anything you need to know we’ll be there to help!
There are new special, limited edition kudu leather sneakers on the horizon from Crown Northampton and attendees of the event will be able to get their names down to be the first to get their own pair. We’ll also be running a competition for a chance to get your hands on a pair totally free!
Our owner, Chris, will be speaking on a panel at the event about his experiences in the industry, approach to making and the future.
You will also have the opportunity to meet the entire team in a more relaxed setting as our staff will be attending the after-parties on both evenings. This will be a great chance to mingle with all the people who know shoes best and meet other shoe enthusiasts attending the event.
As if this all wasn’t exciting enough, we will also be unveiling our new project E.Woodford for its world-wide debut. A revived brand born from the heritage of the Woodford family, creating the finest made-to-order footwear and utilising the skills, dedication and talent of the craftspeople behind the Crown Northampton brand.
More information on the event can be found here: https://www.stitchdownbootcamp.com/
We look forward to seeing you there!
]]>If you hadn't worked it out for yourself already, Shellvedge has a particular interest in two premium materials that are considered the highest quality in their respective fields; Shell Cordovan + Selvedge Denim = Shellvedge.
His very informative breakdown of the Everdon in Ink Horween Cavalier focuses in depth on the style's unique one-piece wholecut construction, fit and last shape, material quality, design and detail, finished with a wearer-based comparison between the original Hand Stitch style, the Harlestone vs the Everdon.
Click through on the video below for expert opinion, thoughts and views from Shellvedge himself.
Or shop the full Hand Stitch Collection here
]]>Excuse the pun, but it's by no means a stretch to say that the Shoe Museum is the beating heart and sole of Northampton, Northamptonshire.
Through all the ups and downs the town and county have experienced over the years, shoes and boots have always remained a critical driver and key brand message for all that is good, great and creative about Northampton and the people residing here.
Located on the historical, picturesque Guild Hall Road in Northampton town centre, the Shoe Museum commands respect throughout the footwear world and sits quietly confident next to the creative hub, which is the NN Contemporary Art Gallery.
Having recently undergone extensive renovations to reveal historical features of the building where the collection is displayed, along with the addition of meeting and community spaces for a more local, spacious, welcoming feel - The Shoe Musem can now stand proud whilst showcasing the abundance of rare and informative shoes, boots and footwear history that are stored in its bursting archives.
So who decides what footwear gems are documented and displayed across the museum's ongoing exhibitions? None other than Northampton's very own Shoe Oracle and the museum's Senior Curator - Rebecca Shawcross.
An invaluable asset to Northampton Town, Rebecca has been quietly going about her business researching, cataloguing, collecting and exhibiting for many years now as the Shoe Museum's head selector.
Always available (when she's not deep in the archives) for expert advice and reliable footwear knowledge - The subdued passion that Rebecca exudes is impossible to ignore, with each and every conversation with her akin to a rummage in the famous archives in itself.
A literal Shoe Oracle that we're extremely privileged to be able to call on when needed - providing she's not buried in the archives amongst light-resistant brown boxes that is.
Read on below for a Q&A with Rebecca that digs a little deeper into some Shoe Museum statistics, personal favourites, views and her journey to becoming the Senior Shoe Curator of one of the most important footwear collections in the world.
In brief, what was your path to where you are today, and was it all part of the plan to become a Shoe Curator?
I did a degree leading to a Diploma in Museum Studies at St Andrews University. There followed several temporary museum jobs working with social history collections at Perth Museum and the National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh. There came a point where I needed a full-time position. Northampton advertised for an Assistant Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection, and I was successful. I remember looking through a few shoe books in preparation, though they didn't ask me anything about shoes! They didn't think they would get anyone with a background in shoes but wanted a museum professional who could then learn about all the aspects of shoes. Over many years I have built up a body of knowledge, experience and contacts, which is constantly developing today.
How many shoes does the shoe museum hold in total, and where does the overall collection rank in terms of other shoe collections worldwide?
We have approximately 18,000 shoes in the overall collection, plus many smaller collections of shoe-related items.
I would say that in terms of the breadth and depth of the collection and the accessibility available, we are high up the list, definitely in the top three.
Do you have a favourite all-time shoe, whether based on age, rarity or an interesting story about how it became part of the Shoe Museum collection?
One of my favourite pairs is shoes made from a whale's ear bones. The donor came in with them a few years ago, explaining that she had let her dog out for a wander, and he came back with one in his mouth; you can see where he chipped it! A few weeks later, he was let out again and found another one. She took them to her local museum, who through their research, discovered that the shoe upper was made from the ear bone of a whale. They have a small wooden platform sole, too and are child-size. I find them fascinating and wonder how they ended up buried in the middle of England, nowhere near the sea, to be discovered randomly hundreds of years later by a dog.
In terms of a period, I love women's shoes from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. They are so beautiful, and it is intriguing to think about who wore them.
I do love the anticipation of what will be brought in next. When I get the call from front of house to say someone has brought in some shoes or a bag of shoes, and I come down to see them is still a very exciting moment, wondering what it could be. Sometimes it's amazing, a real wow moment because of the shoes or the story with the shoes and other times, not so much.
Since the museum has reopened after the refurbishments and building renovations, there are many more areas dedicated to sneakers and athletic footwear and the culture surrounding it. With the continued rise of sneaker culture over recent decades, where do you place the importance of trainers and sneakers within the history of footwear overall?
Sneakers are the second most popular shoe in the world, but I feel they haven't been given the attention they deserved until relatively recently. They have a fascinating history which extends far from their origins. The rubber-soled sports shoe, which developed into the sneaker, has always been an innovative, experimental and forward-looking item of clothing reflecting the changing dynamics of new manufacturing technology, new materials, new behaviours and attitudes, mass fashion, global trade, globalised production and new ways of transporting and selling goods. It is such a vast area that also covers sustainability and ethics, the collectors market, augmented reality, and new digital platforms.
As most of our readers will be aware, and you most certainly are, Northamptonshire is known worldwide for making some of the finest footwear in history. Do you have any interesting facts or information about the Northampton shoe industry that may be lesser known?
Shoemaking has been taking place in the town for over nine hundred years; At its peak, there were over 400 factories and allied trade establishments making footwear in Northampton.
Northampton has made shoes for King Charles, Princess Anne, the late Queen Elizabeth II, several James Bond's including Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig and also Darth Vader.
In 1725 Daniel Defoe, in The Complete English Tradesman, described the dress of Englishmen. He wrote of their shoes that they were:
"From Northampton for all: the poorest countrymen and the master."
Northampton is well known for using the Goodyear Welting method of construction
Are any interesting exhibitions planned for the Shoe Museum that you'd like to highlight? What plans do you have?
We have some very interesting exhibitions, including an exhibition titled 'Punk: Rage and Revolution' between 16 September 2023, 9 June 2024 and 3 March 2024.
It will explore how the international punk explosion inspired and affected young people in Northampton in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Local punk bands, including The Shoplifters, The Russians, and The Submerged Tenth, will be celebrated, and the legacy of punk will be shown through the town's post-punk bands and the diversification of the music genre.
Northampton's most famous band, Bauhaus, has its roots in the local punk scene, having formed and reformed several short-lived bands with many of the same members. The punk movement goes far beyond loud, fast-paced music, and the exhibition will explore the wider sub-culture, live gigs, and the fashion and accessories worn by punks. The exhibition will have a strong local focus, highlighting local bands, music venues, record shops and clothing shops.
Vivienne Westwood: One Man's Collection from 16 March 2024 – 9 June 2024. It will showcase one man's extraordinary collection of Vivienne Westwood shoes. We are also looking at an in-depth exhibition on the shoemaking industry and heritage for the end of 2024
And finally, do you have any bold predictions for footwear in the future, or do you think it'll be more of what's come before?
I think there are a limited number of shoe styles with certain key characteristics that we keep seeing again and again, like specific fastenings, toe shapes and heel heights. Over many hundreds of years, designers, makers and manufacturers have created endless variations of the same handful of styles. This will definitely continue, but in the future, there will be a greater emphasis on sustainability – what shoes are made from, how this sustainability can be maintained, and a greater understanding of where these shoes come from and who makes them.
I think there will also be a greater emphasis placed on cutting-edge technologies by future-thinking creators to produce some amazing designs, from responsive smart shoes to 3D-printed shoes. There will be more designers challenging the status quo to break through old styles to produce something radically new. I also think the metaverse will open up such immense possibilities for virtual footwear. New online platforms have taken sneaker design into the virtual realm creating new ways to provide in-depth information, try on technology, or ways of introducing new releases to the market. I believe blurring the lines between the physical and the virtual has a long way to go.
Thank you so much Rebecca for time and views. As always, very much appreciated.
All details to visit the Shoe Museum can be found here.
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Two words you'll be reading several times in this breakdown are Overstone and Harlestone. But what's in a style name, and what's the significance?
Well, Crown Northampton is from Northampton and made in Northampton - And we're very proud of our local environment. So when it came to names, we devised a loose format that uses Northampton street names where former shoe factories were located initially, prominent local recreational parks, and beautiful local forests and woodlands - All feeding back into a positive local narrative of what we feel are some of Northampton's best assets.
To boil this down further, we have the Overstone, which is named after Overstone Park and the Harlestone, which is named after Harlestone Firs Forest.
Aside from actual style names, as a brand, we also wanted to stand firmly behind our footwear family history and Northampton's world-class standing within footwear itself. That's why you'll always see classic, traditional references such as Wholecut, Oxford, Apron and, of course, Derby across all of our collections. This is our nod of respect to formal dress shoe styles that have come before, lending structure and framework to Crown Northampton's continued production of fine Hand Made Northampton Shoes.
APPEARANCE & CONSTRUCTION
Both of our bestsellers are Derby's in style and construction. The uppers comprise three main sections sewn together to form open-faced Derby lacing, which is generally considered the most popular and easy-to-wear footwear style across the board.
The Overstone is part of the Classic Sneaker Collection, with all Classic styles sitting on a slightly thicker sole unit than the Harlestone, with both styles offering a choice of white, black or gum sole.
The upper of the Overstone carries a fuller silhouette compared to the more slimline Harlestone, and there are slight differences in the front-facing appearance with metal eyelets on the Overstone and punched holes on the Harlestone. Both models feature waxed cotton laces as standard to finish.
Other essential key elements that draw the eye are the heavy hand-stitched 'double stitch' detail found on the front and rear of the Harlestone and help solidify the upper construction. The Overstone takes a more minimal route with barely any visible stitching due to the differences in top-line finishing techniques.
As you'll see from the images, the Overstone top line around the collar and upper is folded over and reversed back onto itself, which hides all joining construction stitch lines. In contrast, the Harlestone features a continuous French bound stitching technique around all outer edges of the upper, which is a highly skilled and intricate process and follows in line with historical footwear traditions.
MATERIALS
Materials are always a key consideration when making decisions on new styles; more often than not, they're the first topic of conversation.
Externally, the Overstone and Harlestone are available in various materials from Horween and CF Stead tanneries, all of which can be found on our Materials Guide overview. However, we're specifically talking about our best-selling white and off-white iterations here, so that's where we'll hold our focus.
The white box calf we use is firm yet softens with wear, is durable, and keeps its surface form well, which helps aid against creasing. The off-white veg tan starts softer and is also more delicate due to the vegetable-tanned finishing processes. These processes affect the wearing of veg tan, which naturally develops a darker patina over time through everyday marks and wear.
The lighter feel and maintenance of veg tan is only for some, as some prefer a more sturdy, firmer finish. But as you already know, both styles are best sellers, so what some like, others loath, and vice-versa.
Internally, you'd expect it all to become quite dull as you don't really ever see what's happening on the inside of a shoe - Unless you've subscribed to cult Youtube channel Rose Anvil. However, we take the hidden internal materials as seriously as the externally viewed upper.
The lining for Overstone is chrome-tanned calf leather with a high-grade vegetable-tanned calf leather used for the Harlestone to compliment the upper and remain in line with pricing. Then comes a 3mm insole board below the upper, which is compressed down onto a layer of soft sponge, with a chrome tan lined, removable insole complete with soft foam base.
The Harlestone opts for a non-removable slab of 3mm veg tan side leather, which is in line with classic Goodyear welted dress shoes and sits just above a 3mm layer of memory foam for extra comfort. The stiffeners that form the internal structure and shape of the sneaker comprise Oak Bark leather for the Harlestone as standard, which some may say is extreme given the high material quality and lengthy tanning times. Still, at Crown Northampton, we believe in fair and honest value for money, so we decided to go all out on the Hand Stitch Collection.
Overall, the company ethos is to always provide the best possible materials, internally and externally, at the price point offered.
SOLE
The two soles we use come from different manufacturers and were chosen specifically to house and cradle the upper in the best possible way.
The Overstone comes with a TPU or Thermoplastic Polyurethane sole unit, which is exclusively designed by and for Crown Northampton, so this is our own that you won't find on any other sneakers.TPU is a durable compound known for its hardwearing qualities and durability.
The Harlestone combines with a 100% sustainable natural latex sole unit from Lactae Hevea, slightly slimmer than the Overstones. Yet, both sole units have been picked to balance the overall appearance of each style sympathetically.
Both the Overstone and Harlestone soles are initially glued into place, then sidewall stitched to finish, which allows them both to be resoled at a further point in time.
A significant difference between the two can be found when reviewing the crucial space between the upper and the sole and what material is added when they're stuck together.
This comprises foam for the Overstone and a cork-filled layer for the Harlestone, which once again mirrors the construction and processes used in the making of Hand made dress shoes. With continued wear, the cork layer forms a personal imprint of the wearer's foot, giving a familiar custom feel with every wear.
Whereas the Overstone doesn't feature this same cork layer, the combination of foam and heavily padded, leather-lined insoles sat above provides similar comfort levels to the top-tier Harlestone sole feel, just with different layers and levels of construction to get there.
Both sole units were chosen for their accompanying Overstone, and Harlestone lasts specifically, so, therefore, sole units cannot be mixed and matched across differing styles.
SIZING
This should be relatively simple to cover when comparing the two styles, as Crown Northampton always aims to size so that you take the same size in all styles and collections. Of course, there will always be exceptions to this rule as some last and construction types will naturally be slimmer or wider than others, and this won't suit everyone's foot shape.
Generally, when it comes to length, our footwear is consistent, and if you feel you need a wider fit on particular styles, we can also offer a wider G Fit or extra wide G Fit+ if required. Our standard fit is a generous, industry standard F fit which suits most customers, but the wider G fittings are always there as a custom request and a slimmer E Fit if required.
SUITABLE FOR
Now this one really does come down to personal taste and your take on fashion. Still, we have a guiding brand direction and view as to how our sneakers could or should be worn, usually a combination of confident, classic, contemporary style that, when implemented correctly, serves as timeless.
The imagery we share across our website and socials offer insight into what we believe the Overstone and Harlestone models can be comfortably paired with.
Sneakers, by default, are a casual item of clothing that can be worn with jeans, chinos, shorts and other everyday items. However, our sneakers cannot be classed as athletic sneakers as the premium materials they incorporate, combined with handmade Northampton construction, elevates them to a higher, more considered level. This then allows them to be paired with more formal outfits or a combination of smart and casual if desired.
Our sneakers, particularly the Harlestone, have already appeared on many grooms' feet matched with a well-cut tailored suit, yet they're equally at home with pair of casual chinos and a t-shirt. The same goes for the Overstone, which can also be styled with various outfits.
To sum up, see the Overstone as the ultimate Minimal Sneaker and the Harlestone as the ultimate Dress Sneaker. Both have their place but feel free to change it up and wear them however you feel.
Already available in a selection of Horween Buffalo, Horween Chromexcel, and Scottish Deer Suede, the Everdon is now available to order in our two bestselling Horween Shell Cordovan colours - No 8 and Bourbon. The Everdon's unique one-piece wholecut upper oozes minimalist luxury, understated with its sleek, dress sneaker mid-boot appeal.
Interesting angles blend with uncluttered, flowing lines that really come to the fore when using shell cordovan, as the light catches the glossy surface of this truly unique material.
The unique aspects of the Everdon design can be fully appreciated when following the French binding all around the topline leading down to the vamp in one continuous motion. All expertly cut in one piece to form the classic wholecut design, this is a skillful process that is traditionally found in Northampton dress shoe patterns.
See the two new Shell Cordovan versions of the Everdon casually styled below.
Available to order here.
]]>For this edition of People & Product, we managed to finally pin down a man who we have known for quite a while through various different avenues. Aasen Stephenson is a local artist, maker, creator and all-round nice guy, with a super steady hand (read on and you’ll see what we mean), and a fascinating home studio filled with interesting objects and obscure curiosities.
He has spent the past few years working at Springline, our Northampton based last supplier (and also the last remaining last supplier in the UK). We have also seen some of his personal projects make their way to being proudly displayed in various places up and down the county too.
Recently Aasen has started a charity drive for Cynthia Spencer Hospice, an organisation providing palliative care services here in Northampton. The basis of the project is that several teams locally come together to raise money for Cynthia Spencer, kindly started by Franklins Solicitors who donate £50 to each participant in the aim to raise as much as possible for a local charity of their choice. To get behind this thoroughly worthwhile cause, Crown Northampton donated a pair of Harlestone sneakers for Aasen to add his handiwork to and we're now giving away the finished pair of sneakers to one lucky winner.
Aasen’s no stranger to hand customising Northampton shoes, essentially taking a tattoo gun to the upper, without the ink, to create a pattern or design into the surface of the leather. Depending on the design and its coverage of the shoe, they can be anything from a small motif to an allover full pattern to form incredibly intricate artworks.
To help support the charity drive, we’re offering a pair of Harlestone Hand Stitch sneakers to anybody that donates ANY amount to Aasen’s Just Giving page from now up until the closing date 12th May. We’ll then select a winner at random who will get to chose their own size and colour combination in the Harlestone style, which Aasen will then customise with one of his fully bespoke designs tattooed into the sneakers. All materials from the Hand Stitch Collection will be available to choose from with the exclusion of Horween Shell Cordovan.
More information on the campaign can be found here.
So, we know Aasen likes to do his bit to help support local charities, but we wanted to know more about him and how his unique skills came about. As is standard with these People & Product features, we sat down with Aasen for a cup of tea and a few custard creams (thanks by the way Aasen, and nice tea pot!) and asked him a few questions all follows...
Aasen, thinking back to your past, how did your creative journey begin?
I’ve always worked with my hands, computers just weren’t my thing growing up. I have always liked to be hands on and create something with absolutely no machine intervention - it’s always got to be manual.
What were your first jobs and how did you end up doing what you do today?
Originally I went to college and studied art but obviously had to get a typical day job to make a living, so I was actually a mechanic in a traditional car garage working on anything and everything they would need me to fix. Alongside that I was always continuing my artwork and way before I ever got into ‘cutting’ or engraving anything, I was actually making more street art style work during the period when the likes of Banksy and other street/pop art names were gaining popularity. I’d work with spray paint, stencils, and generally any sort of mediums I could get my hands on at the time.
And was this when you started the ‘Deathrooms’ brand? What’s the inspiration behind that name?
Deathrooms - ah that comes from my love for music. At the time I was really into a band called The Distillers and I was friends with their lead singer, Brody Dalle. They have an album titled ‘Sing Sing Death House’ which really resonated with me at that time in my life and I just decided to lift the ‘Death House’ name and from then on it’s kind of been a ‘brand’ as such that I've gone by.
Aside from keeping a day job, you’ve also with various different studios and outlets for your creative work. Can you tell us more?
Ever since I got into creating different artwork styles for various people, I began to receive positive response to works I’d done for free or for favours and the like. I've then been able to display my work in a few studios selling work to the public. Looking a few years back,I had a place in the Northampton Fish Market complex which was great, as it was a venue amongst other artists which was set in a cool space that, as the name suggests, was formerly a fish market. Around that time I also moved from the practice of cutting the stencils for spray work to paper cutting. I figured I was cutting the stencils anyway and found something interesting in paper cutting. The more complex the more challenging and ultimately, the more curious the output.
Ah, so that’s how the ‘cutting’ thing came about - we did wonder! So how did you then transition from paper to shoes?
I was cutting designs into paper and then I met a designer who was connected to Alexander McQueen in the fashion world. She had some ideas of how I could then cut into leather and it could be used to make a garment. That led to producing a dress that had a pattern cut into it and even a mens leather jacket, and that was my first venture into cutting leather.
Then obviously from the leather work, came the shoes, right?
Yes, that’s right. Whilst I was at the Fish Market, Guy West of Jeffrey West (another well established Northampton shoe brand) picked up my work and was interested. I had a go at using a tattoo gun without ink to essentially etch designs into the leather and then things spiralled from there. My own style of artwork aligned with the Jeffrey West iconic style and I ended up collaborating with them on many different things. Once I even found myself travelling to a store opening of theirs to customise shoes for people on the spot as they purchased them. That was a trip!
Okay, so it’s safe to say your artwork has taken you on an interesting journey. To bring it right up to the present day, we’ve seen some of your leaf cut designs. How do you create these?
I find leaves in local parks or forests then press them in magazines for around six months so they’re nice and dry and flat. I then cut freestyle designs into them fully by hand and eye. I’ve done all sorts of different styles and those are likely some of the things you have seen on display in various places around the town. There’s something about cutting into a natural object that is already beautiful and intricate in its form and then adding to that beauty further.
Finally. Thank you for your time and hospitality Aason. Our connection with yourself was initially through local last makers Springline where you’ve worked for the past few years as a bespoke last maker among other things. Now you’ve recently moved on to pastures new, we wish you all the best, wherever your creative adventures take you next. Thanks for taking the time to catch up with us and good luck with your charity drive. We also hope you enjoy your chosen pair of Crown Northampton Overstone Derby Sneakers shown in this feature. Finished in your personal choice of Forest Green Horween leather with black sole, we think they suit your style and personality perfectly.
Shop the Overstone in all colours here.
PHOTOGRAPHY & WORDS - Ben Lloyd
]]>For this feature we met up with a fella we’ve known for a few years after frequenting various Northampton establishments. Magee Street Bakery being one of those, where we like to start our weekly marketing team meetings with a beverage and one of their legendary bacon sandwiches when we’re feeling up to it. (They’re pretty substantial!)
Roger Robinson is a prize-winning writer, poet, musician and all around intriguing individual. Hailing from Trinidad, and spending his time split between there and the UK, as well as travelling, Roger has several different projects that always peak our interest and it seems like there’s never enough time to really dig into the intricacies of what he’s up to, but we’ll do our best here in this write-up at least.
Observing Roger's personal style day to day, we knew he would be a great fit for a pair of our sneakers, and when dropped into conversation Roger confirmed he loves a fresh pair of sneakers! For the people and product series, we gift a pair of Crown Sneakers as there is no better way to experience what we’re all about than wearing a pair for yourself and beating them up over the months after breaking in fully.
Roger selected the Overstone Hi Derby in a fresh white/white colourway, keeping it classic. Our team duly obliged and the pair were made to order in a few weeks whilst Roger was out on the road with work. When he finally landed back home in Northampton after a trip to Mexico City, we were able to call round to Roger’s place to deliver the pair and have a chat about his various musings around writing, design, art, fashion, and music.
First off Roger, we found it hard to your introduction in this article, (hopefully we have done you justice). How would you go about describing yourself as a creative?
A creative citizen, I practise creative citizenship.
Roger, is there anyone who you draw inspiration from on a regular basis?
The poet Linton Kwesi Johnson
As a multi-medium artist, how do you go about splitting your work/personal projects? Is there a particular discipline that you focus on and then the others are extra, or is it all one big melting pot?
I finish one thing and then I decide what’s next on the list and I finish the next thing but the list never seems to end.
We know you have a series on your instagram featuring the hashtag #artists which offers some valuable experiential musings on what it’s like to be an artist. Can you tell us a bit more about the inspiration behind this series?
In a creative slump I started to remind myself about creative principles and best practice. I came out of the drought but continued the practice and I share them on social media for others.
Another project we’ve enjoyed recently is your book alongside acclaimed photographer Johny Pitts ‘Home Is Not A Place’, based on your travels around the UK in a red Mini Cooper, following the coastline clockwise and exploring the question ‘What is Black Britain?’. That must have been a hell of a journey. Were there any stand-out highlights or events from the road that you could tell us about?
England’s incredibly beautiful coast. I never knew. It’s some of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen and I’ve travelled a lot.
Now Roger, with several releases under your belt, we know you’ve more than dabbled in the music business and so it feels obligatory to ask, what’s coming up in the future from your musical side?
More dub poetry albums. An album with Amos Jabu from Young Echo, A Black Space Quartet album and a range of other collab singles.
Finally, we could go on all day quizzing you about your work and projects, but we figure we should ask you something shoe related at least. Looking back, what was/is your favourite shoe or sneaker that you have owned and what do you look for when choosing a sneaker?
A pair of Clark’s brown desert boots . They were simple and well made. I felt that it was a metaphor I could carry with me and wear. Much like the lovely crown shoes you gifted. Simple and well made a quiet luxury.
Roger, we’ll leave it there for this feature, until we next run into one another around our Northampton spots. We hope you enjoy wearing your Overstone Hi’s and they serve you well as you continue your creative explorations.
Roger’s latest book ‘Home Is Not A Place’ is available to buy from Waterstones, here. You can also stream Roger’s musical projects on Spotify and online from various outlets.
Shop the Overstone Hi in several colourways here.
PHOTOGRAPHY & WORDS - Ben Lloyd
]]>***NOW SOLD OUT***
Next up in our 'Shell Specials' series that focuses on rare and hard to find Horween Shell Cordovan colours is...Armagnac.
Made up in our Harlestone Hand Stitch Model, the Almanac colour could be considered as a rich, mid shade of brown. A bit darker than the ever popular Bourbon, and not quite as dark as Dark Cognac, Armagnac finds itself nicely nestled in between the two.
Once again, this rare shell colour has been specially sourced from our local Northampton leather merchants, who are the UK's only official Horween stockists and therefore supply and stock is limited. Available to to buy now with a choice of Lactae Hevae soles in the gum pictured aswell as off white and black, we only have enough shells to make 20 pairs of sneakers in total and as always, once they're gone they're gone!
All 'Shell Special' pairs are hand numbered, and made to order with delivery in 45 working days.
Take a look at the images below and order here or just click on the images.
ORDER HERE
]]>Our products are considered to be in the higher price point bracket, but with our made-to-order, direct-to-customer business model it's all relative. You can be sure that for the price you pay, you will receive the very best materials handmade in Northampton, England footwear construction with no expensive marketing budgets to cover or wholesale margins to build in. We pride ourselves on offering the best possible footwear available, with fair and honest pricing to you - the customer. These commitments are unbreakable, and one of the main reasons that we generally steer away from wholesale stockist distribution, as our sourcing costs and margins simply don’t allow it.
Onto the newest addition to the Hand Stitch Collection - The Everdon Wholecut Mid Boot. When deciding what style we were going to design next to add to the collection, we considered customer feedback and what would best complement our existing Harlestone Derby model. This led us toward a hi-top model but we also wanted to explore different options.
Creativity, fresh ideas, and experimentation are crucial to all aspects of Crown Northampton from the design process to the factory floor. A new way of looking at a situation can often bring unexpected results. The beauty of working in our own factory means that everyone works under one roof and they can add their input and ideas in real-time - and this is how the Everdon boot first came about.
Two of our most experienced makers Lee and Kerry were having some, let's call it, 'creative time', during their tea break one day. They pulled on a discarded spare upper that they found laying around the factory floor to a Harlestone Hand Stitch last then added some Lactae Hevea soles. The upper was from a hiking boot style that we developed from one of our archive models - specifically for one of our Japanese clients - and the end result was very interesting. So interesting in fact, that we decided to redirect from our original plans and focus on the new hybrid adaptation of the original hiker boot. We all agreed that we could be on to a winner, so Chris dived into the mid-boot pattern and continued with the next stages of sampling. At times, when the next new updated sample was complete, we thought we were nearly there. But some areas were not quite in line with our design ethos of the Hand Stitch Collection so we continued to boil it down until we arrived at the final sample that we were happy to sign off on.
This entire process of sampling > trialing> re-sampling > re-trialing can last several months and sometimes a year or two but the Everdon came together quite nicely. One of our core design drivers is to only include visible stitchwork where absolutely necessary, so all details are functional first and never purely just decorative. Falling back on this agreed brand framework has helped us build the 'Hand Stitch Collection'. With a design and build that works to a tried-and-tested process alongside a clear and concise direction.
One particular design feature of the Everdon that demonstrates the above concept is the row of four individually sewn hand stitches to the interior side of the tongue. As the Everdon features a wholecut construction that uses just one piece for the upper, the tongue has to be sewn at the bottom in one place (as opposed to a derby construction where the side quarters are sewn onto the vamp). The four hand stitches are therefore sewn through the interior side of the tongue and onto the one piece upper so that the tongue remains in place and doesn't slide to either side when on foot. The outcome is function first and decorative second - And where the hand stitches are visible, we think they look rather nice.
Apart from the Everdon's unique wholecut appearance with French bound finishing, the mid-boot design features full natural leather vegetable tanned lining footbed as standard, oak bark stiffeners throughout, a cork-filled Lactae Hevea sole unit for extra comfort, discreet Crown branding, and waxed cotton laces. Ultimately, the Everdon delivers a silhouette that can be effortlessly styled with a wide range of smart or casual outfits. Therefore continuing the 'Dress Sneaker' direction that the 'Hand Stitch Collection' has become known for.
Initially launching in a selection of Scottish deer suede, Horween Chromexcel leather, and Horween buffalo leather. We took a few pairs out and about on a crisp Sunday morning with our good friend Justin Portess. The location was the Kenwood House. An English Heritage site with grounds that merge into Hampstead Heath, North London, for the perfect mix of period buildings and rural Spring settings.
The Everdon Mid Boot is now available to order. View the full collection here.
Model - Justin Portess
Photography - Alex Natt & Ben Lloyd
Weston cuts footwear in half for a living to review how they're actually made and with what materials, so he can verify any previous brand marketing claims as honest and truthful or advertising spin. Weston really liked our Harlestone - Especially the extremely high level of materials that we use both externally and internally.
Since launch, the Harlestone has remained as the solitary style in the Hand Stitch Collection, albeit available in a wide range of premium materials from veg tan leather to Horween Shell Cordovan. Thinking the Harlestone might want some company, over the past few months we've been busy designing, trialing and sampling the newest addition to the Hand Stitch Collection - The Everdon Wholecut Mid Boot.
All of us at the factory love the new style that features all the top of the line materials, construction and finishing that can be found in the Harlestone and we can't wait to fully share it with you all. But for now, here's a short video shot in our Northampton factory to whet your appetite - A quick preview of the processes and handmade detail that goes into the making of each pair of Everdon Mid Boots.
More information coming very soon...
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The entry point was likely interwoven with music, sports, graffiti, skateboarding, or in many cases, maybe it was just an older friend or relative that gave the heads up and introduced them to the unfolding journey. It was normally a combination of or all of the above that led to dedicated hunters wandering down back streets on a tip about an old sports store, and scavenging through old stock rooms to seek out rare finds and original releases.
For our latest 'People & Product' entry, we sat down with Northampton resident - originally South London native, Keith Taperell. Now Keith has been around the block a bit in terms of the brands that he's worked with. His CV includes stints at Timberland, Carhartt, Levi's, Nike, Converse - So he's covered a lot of ground, gained a lot of knowledge, and experienced the growth and directional changes to the brand market whilst working on the job.
A very astute and well-connected operator in his field, Keith is currently the VP of Sales & Retail at Bravado, which is the merchandising arm of Universal Music Group, who have artists on their roster including Stormzy, Bob Marley, Public Enemy, Nas, Jamiroquai, Mary J Blige, Tupac and The Rolling Stones just to name a few. If you see one of these huge artist's images, branding, or names on any associated merchandise in a store or at a concert then it's likely that Keith helped broker the deal.
With a keen eye for merging fashion with music through interesting artist and brand collaborations, recent projects that Keith's headed up include Beastie Boys x Champion, The Rolling Stones x Foot Patrol, and the bizarre yet brilliant collaboration that no one saw coming - Elton John x Palace Skateboards.
When choosing his Crown Northampton product, Keith kept it classic and understated with an All White Box Calf Abington Toe Cap Sneaker with a custom request to match the grained toe cap with the back strip. As all of our footwear is fully made to order - No problem Keith.
Once his order was complete, we dropped them off personally at his house. Over a cup of coffee, our Brand Manager Mark Higgs sat down for a chat with Keith to discuss some other classic white sneakers he'd pulled from his personal collection. All accumulated over time, along with some of his current favourites, and also some more rare and obscure pairs that have a bit of a story attached to them.
Keith's kindly written some words with his take on what makes a classic, timeless, sneaker, and his thoughts on current favourites from more recent sneaker releases.
Take it away, Keith...
The first pair that changed my perception and ignited my interest in the sneaker (trainer) world was my first pair of branded sneakers, a pair of Nike Waffle Trainers. Before that I wore what everyone wore, black elasticated slip-ons, the go to and only gym shoe at the time. Moving to those first Nikes, they didn’t leave my feet as soon as I got them. When they got wet camping with my family, they hung near the fire drying out; with myself waiting beside them. As those days you had one and only one pair.
The stage was set from that point, as was my obsession. I became a Nike head by default and their design. I used to do a fair bit of track and field at school, so was down at Cobra Sports and other retail stores trying to convince my parents to kit out my athletics attire with the latest and greatest. My running spikes weren’t the norm, they were Nike Omega Flame (much more well known for the Trainer version, with the graduated colour way on the upper). Can’t say they helped me win races, but they definitely looked the best on the start line.
Nike was the go-to, but I dabbled with others on the way. Hi-Tec Green Flash, we all had them at some point. A pair of Puma GV Specials, tennis trainers (I lived near Wimbledon Tennis Courts. So, all of us local kids were influenced by that). When from the other side of the river in Herzogenaurach (the town that birthed two sneaker giants), Adidas brought out their ZX range; that was all we wanted. I had enough money for the ZX350’s, but they had sold out of my size. The store owner (of Morden Sports. an institution that is sadly no longer in existence), taking pity on my plight, let me have a pair of ZX 500’s for the price of the 350’s. You wouldn’t get that type of service anywhere these days. Even had a pair of Reebok Pump Omni Lites, basketball shoes. As the pump tech fascinated me, although I wasn’t really a fan of Reebok.
I always, eventually, went back to Nike. The introduction of the Air Max was a complete game changer. The Air Max 1’s, the Air Max 90’s (my feet were small enough then to fit into the women’s versions, they always had the better colours) amazing. Then Nike came with the 180’s; and they blew everyone’s minds. Adidas Torsion and ZX introductions had a similar effect; paired with oversized Chipie chino’s, with a pin roll; and Burlington argyle socks. But the constant delivery by Nike of innovative tech, housed in ground-breaking design has kept them as my go to. Which is why in my current rotation, Nike is not the only brand, but remains dominant.
Current rotation favourites are, unsurprisingly, a cross section of Nike’s. Stash x Nike Air Force One Low, from 2006. Yes, these trainers are seventeen years old and still being worn. Colour combination on these is genius. If you want these now, you’ll have to go on to StockX and pay thousands of pounds for them. In 2006, all I needed to do was walk into London’s Footpatrol in the week of release, say what’s up to Wes and buy them for retail (also got the 95’s at the same time, just to rub it in, sorry).
More up to date are a pair of Undercover x Nike React 87’s from 2018; with translucent uppers and a sole unit that’s straight off a lunar landing.
Then we have Sacai x Nike Vaporwaffle’s in Black. And the Sacai x Nike LD Waffle in triple white. Everything Chitose Abe (Sacai’s founder) touches is elevated to a new level of excellence. The detail, the expansion of original design to create something new, fresh and unique; whilst at the same time honouring the original design are works of genius (look out for her take on the Nike Footscape coming out end of 2023!).
Finishing the current rotation list, we go back a way. A Retro version of a 1987 classic, Nike Air Safari. Last retro was 2018, but these pairs are from a previous release, 2012 if I’m not mistaken. Designed by Tinker Hatfield, with faux ostrich skin print pattern. And immortalised by Biz Markie on the back of his album ‘Goin’ Off’.
To honour the Crown Northampton All White Box Calf Abington Toe Cap Sneaker, I also brought out a selection of all white (well, white and some mostly white) sneakers from the collection. You have Converse Chuck 70 collaborations with Andre Saraiva. Supreme x Nike Tennis Classics. Nigel Cabourn x Converse First String CT Plimsole Ox’s etc.
Standout ones include the rightly revered Stash x Nike Air Force 1 High from 2003. NYC, London & Tokyo versions were introduced. Each with their own flight box. My pair have seen better days. Denim bleed on the tongues, sole cracking and failing in places, upper wanting to remove itself from the mid. But there is simply no way I can part with these. Still want to wear them, but there’s a strong fear that I’ll be in the middle isle of Aldi with only uppers and no soles. The fear is real, as this previously happened to me with a retro pair of cement Jordan IV’s. Only difference was that it was TK Maxx and not Aldi.
A non-Nike moment is a pair of Visvim FBT’s, from around 2007 when it was $2 to the £1 and I was in LA for work. Got these from Union, when with the then retail pricing and the exchange rate Visvim’s were affordable for us mere mortals. The uppers on this pair are made from Elk skin, simply the most soft and comfortable leather uppers I own. Shoes are of the moccasin construction. As the ex-Burton Snowboards designer, turned founder of Visvim, Hiroki Nakamura, is heavily inspired by Native American design and construction. Moccasin construction being one of the most simplistic yet comfortable, as it wraps the foot and moulds to your foot shape over time.
Hidden in the mix of white are a real pair of grails, and one of the very few pairs of sneakers that I haven’t worn. I was in Paris for work, and we were comp shopping stores, checking out trends, what products were dropping, what customers were wearing etc. Walked into the infamous high fashion and streetwear store Colette; and they were just putting on display the first BAPE x Adidas collaboration release. This was summer 2003. Couldn’t believe my luck and purchased the white colourway of the Adidas Superstar (also released in black and camo versions). The updated spec of clever intricate details, debossed BAPE heads on the upper, multiple tongues and “The Respect Is Mutual” slogan printed on the heel. Limited to 500 pairs. Could never bring myself to wear them, too good and too clean to ruin.
I’m not going to lie. The Jordan 1 thing when they were first introduced in 1984, passed me by. I slept on Jordans until the Jordan IV was released in 1989. These retro versions of the original Fire Red Colourway (one of the four colour variations in the original release) are the one pair, that when I wear them, I get compliments on without fail. Still turning heads 34 years after they were first released.
And the most recent pair in the collection, the Crown Northampton All White Box Calf Abington Toe Cap Sneaker. Living in Northampton for the past twelve or more years has meant I have had the fortune to see first-hand the amazing heritage, talent, craftmanship of Northampton and Northamptonshire footwear factories. Crown Northampton are up there with the very best. Albeit with their focus on the causal side of the market, over the more traditional goodyear welted shoes that this town is famous for. The quality of materials used, and the artisanship in the build is industry leading.
The white trainer, from its humble beginning, has come a long way. It’s fitting that it was also a Goodyear, Charles (the father of Charles Goodyear JR. who invented Goodyear Welting), that invented vulcanised rubber. Where many decades later this invention was used by US Rubber Company Keds to bring plimsolls to the world. Then made popular by Converse, who added coloured uppers into the range. Starting with white before moving on to more varied colour options. The differing fashions and trends have moved this shoe from the sports fields to the streets. And now companies like Crown Northampton are taking it to new heights and making product that is timeless and can be worn with any style, on any occasion.
Choosing the Abington for its Derby construction, open lacing method, that was also popular as a sporting boot in 1900’s; and one that I find very comfortable and well fitting. Trying not to over complicate nor over design an exceptional modern version of a classic. Flat laces, punched eyelets without any metal reinforcements for simplicity and clean lines. With the only nod to a twist on a classic being the cross-grain effect on the toe cap and heel strip. I very much hope to still be wearing these in another twenty year’s time.
We hope so too! Thanks for your time Keith!
]]>Completely unrelated to that opening statement, we've just launched D4 of our Shell Cordovan Specials. For this extra special D4 December release which will be the last one of the year, we're not just offering you one colour option but two in this 'Marble Pack' extravaganza!
So what's so special about this particular colour and creation from the Horween Company then? I'll let the product description below explain further...
Available in two colours - No 8 & Black, the Horween Shell Cordovan Marble Pack is completely unique in appearance, which is achieved through secret Horween tanning processes that result in an unpredictable allover pattern that does not repeat itself. This means that every sneaker will have it's own unique finish that will not be replicated. The No 8 features shades of lighter brown underneath the base colour and the black has areas of green and tan that also complement the base colour. As all of the shells are different, the Crown Northampton factory will expertly cut the uppers to create a matching pair meaning the end result will vary across all pairs.
And if that's not enough already...
We've also made a limited edition D4 Houghton Card Holders from the two marbled shell colours, with a 15% discount on the cardholder when purchased with sneakers. Just add to cart and the code will automatically be added at checkout.
There will be 15 pairs of each colour available in total across all sizes on a first come, first served basis.
So take a look below at the Marble Pack and if you're interested in treating yourself to an early Christmas present with a 2023 delivery, you know what to do.
We thank all of our loyal Crown Northampton community for your support and hope you have a great Christmas and new year!
]]>Towards the end of 2021, amid very uncertain global movements that were causing huge problems with supply chain and many other aspects of production, we ran out of our buffalo skins that were very popular made up in our Harlestone Hand Stitch Sneaker.
The Horween company is one of our long term trusted partners and suppliers of some of the most unique leathers available on the market. Through conversations with our own Chris Woodford, our local leather suppliers, and the Horween Company, we have sourced seven new colours of Buffalo that are exclusive to Crown Northampton.
Across these colours, we have limited stock on No 8, Ink and Green. Therefore, the number of pairs we are able to make will be limited and offered on a first come, first served basis. This is because of the material stock we have on hand at our factory, how we have ordered the batches from Horween, and the quantities they were able to delivery to us.
So why is this leather so unique? Well, Horween buffalo leather is tanned in the US in a similar way to Chromexcel with a combination of both vegetable and chrome tanning. Through these processes, the buffalo is naturally shrunken down from around 30ft to 20ft when finished. This skilled process pulls the fibres together tight, making them very tough and durable. Each skin retains its own personal ruggedness which results in a pronounced grain that can vary in size across the surface. As the skins are purposely left natural straight out of the tanning drum and not embossed for a uniform finish, the true character of each skin shines through, making each pair of sneakers or shoes made from the material completely unique.
So in summary, it's individual in appearance, tanned and finished to be soft yet durable, and overall it just looks really good in our Harlestone Hand Stitch Sneaker!
Available now in sizes UK 3 -14 with a choice of Lactae Hevea soles in black, off white.
View some of the available colour combinations below and click through on the images or shop the full collection here.
TAN, GREY, BROWN & BLACK BUFFALO HORWEEN
LIMITED COLOURS - INK, GREEN & NO 8 BUFFALO HORWEEN
SHOP THE FULL COLLECTION HERE
]]>The 'Crown Northampton Visits' features are normally set up with a trip to a place or venue that's not normally on our everyday radar so it's something new to all involved. This one is a bit different.
Spring Line are extremely important to the worldwide footwear trade, Northampton shoemakers, and Northampton as a town and county. Masters of their craft, they are the only remaining last-makers in Great Britain and one of the most prominent artisan businesses in Northampton, adding ongoing value to the local economy.
Spring Line are considered to be the very best at what they do and the list of client's feet they have measured and lasted includes A-list Hollywood celebrities, world-class sportspeople, and members of the Royal Family. Simply put, if you want the best in last-making, you go to Spring Line.
When it comes to making Crown Northampton products, Spring Line are heavily involved in the many stages of design and fitting, from initial trialing and testing to the finished signed-off product. Master last-maker Michael James is extremely knowledgable on this specialist subject with decades of experience under his belt. Michael works closely with our owner and Master Shoemaker Chris Woodford on any new designs and product developments to our collections. Further to this, Spring Line also makes all Crown Northampton wooden shoe trees in their factory which plays perfectly into one of our core brand messages of sourcing materials and labour in the local area, as close to home as possible.
Fit is extremely important when it comes to footwear, For a single new style, several models and updated lasts are made and adjusted before the job can be considered complete - one of the main reasons it took over a year of design and fit tweaks to finish our Harlestone Hand Stitch Sneaker. It's fair to say that if Spring Line were not located just down the road from us in Northampton, then this job would have taken considerably longer.
Michael often pops into the Crown Northampton Factory to hand-deliver a last for a new style that we're working on or maybe to drop off a delivery of a shoe tree if he's passing through. Northampton is one of those places where you bump into people regularly and there's a local connection running through the town's businesses and industries - especially in the shoemaking trade.
As the last is generally the first element you start with when making any type of shoe, it's a very important and skilled process that deserves a deeper look. When we visited we were given a tour around Spring Line's factory floor by Michael's son - Sonny, who also works for the company.
Sonny was very knowledgeable about all aspects of Spring Line and you could really feel the passion he has for his craft, no doubt filtered down from his Dad. We started off on the upper floors of the factory where most of the hand carving and design adjustments are made on wooden lasts with hand tools. You can quite literally smell wood in the air and there are racks of lasts that have been made for previous customers with more than a few very familiar names on show.
It's on these upper floors where you gain a full understanding of Michael's love for the art of last-making and Northampton's industrial shoe-making past. Over the years he has collected an enviable archive of Northampton shoe memorabilia that packs out his office and spills out onto the walls of the factory. There is also a fair bit of memorabilia for Michaels's other love - Northampton Town Football Club, or 'The Cobblers' as they're nicknamed.
The ground floor has more of an industrial factory floor feel to it with several large technical machines highlighting the progression of last-making in the modern world. Carving and shaping each last by hand is an amazing skill that is beautiful to watch, but Spring Line does work with several big brands and small start-ups so machine help is needed for some processes. The colours and fittings of these machines are all unique in their own way and the local charm of the factory is retained with walls of chunky metal storage units labelled up with stickers handwritten in bold marker pens. Even though machines are very much part of Spring Lines production, you're never too far away from a hand-finished, human touch.
Whereas Spring Line may not be as old as some of the oldest Northampton shoemakers having started their business in 1982, their history, knowledge, and expertise in last-making is unmatched and truly impressive to see in action. Such an important part of our business and the shoemaking world and we really are very fortunate to have them right here in Northampton!
More information on Spring Line and the services they offer can be found here.
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