Our knowledge of Northampton shoemaking gives us confidence in every part of what we do. It is in our blood. Many of our team are third, fourth, or fifth-generation shoemakers, and that inherited skill shapes every pair we make. Crown’s heritage goes beyond something remembered or romanticised; it is lived every day through the work of our hands.
While our products come from within, they are not bound by the past. We work with the knowledge of our ancestors but design for today. From our hand-welted construction to the centuries-old tanneries supplying us with leathers for our minimal wholecut sneakers, we build on heritage to create what feels right now.
Because of this, there is very rarely any use in collaborations from a product perspective. They only make sense when the material or the idea truly deserves it. For us, that means finding a partner who shares our ethos and a material that challenges the way we usually work. Something new to us, that we need a little help in understanding. It must bring something new, while still feeling part of who we are.
The Meeting of Minds
In recent years we have been working with Heddels, a platform that champions makers and materials built to last. This union has always felt genuine and easy. It is reassuring to know that there are others who value the same things we do: quality, patience, and products that matter.
That shared outlook made it natural to explore the idea of creating something together. A collaboration that would draw on both of our strengths and result in a product that reflected each of our worlds.
Heddels are known for their deep knowledge of denim, a material we had never worked with before. After a few early chats with David Shuck, partner and head of unusual ideas department, we started to experiment. The first fabric we worked with was actually a bulletproof material. Interesting, but not very practical. It was safe to say that one was not going to make it past the clicking room.
So, we turned our attention to something more in the Heddels area of expertise—raw denim. It felt right to start with the material they know best and see if it could pair with what we know about: structure, pattern, and fit of a shoe.
The first challenge was finding denim that met the durability standards we expect in footwear. Most fabrics simply would not last. When we spoke with David about this, he already had an answer.
He introduced us to an Italian-woven Dyneema denim weighing just under 14 ounces. Around thirty percent of the yarns are Dyneema fibre, giving the fabric remarkable strength and an AA abrasion rating, the same standard used for motorcycle armour. The warp yarns alone have a tensile strength of more than 550 kilograms. Strong enough for protection gear, yet fine enough to shape by hand. Only one roll of this denim exists in the world (!).
Perfect and rare, we thought. Now we just had to see if we could actually work with it.
Over to Us Then
Our design process always begins with the material, and this one made its presence known straight away. The Dyneema denim is incredibly tough, which meant our usual clicking knives barely made a mark. Scissors were no use either, and even serrated press knives struggled.
After a few conversations with old Northampton shoe maker friends, a local builder, and plenty of trial and error, we realised we needed something different. The answer turned out to be a handheld rotary cutter fitted with a grinding stone, as this fabric blunts blades in no time at all.
Once we had found a way to cut it cleanly, we began to understand just how much it could fray. Any raw edges would need to be sealed, folded, or covered with a complementary material. The result was a wholecut pattern that kept the structure simple but the work precise.
The Lasting Test
The biggest surprise came during lasting. Despite its strength, the material responded much like leather. It held its shape well and did not pull apart under pressure. The fight to cut and close it had been worth it.
All the effort pays off once the upper is on the last. The fabric works with the process rather than against it, holding tension in the right places and moulding neatly around the form. We believe that same density and strength will translate into long-term durability.
Materials to Pair With It
One major difference between raw denim and the leathers we use every day is that it does not age in isolation. It leaves its mark on the materials around it as it fades and softens over time. Rather than fight that, we decided to embrace it.
The denim will bleed, fade, and shift in colour, so we selected materials that would age gracefully alongside it. Veg tan baby calf and the Lactae Hevea sole will love the attention. It will be interesting to see how the combined patina of the veg tan leather and the colour absorption of the denim create one-off sneakers that evolve with wear. More subtle in black, more striking in white. So we made both.
The Last and Fit
We tested the uppers on different lasts and found that the lightweight yet robust material sat somewhere between our Jazz and Hand Stitch collections. The final design uses the same last as the Hand Stitch Collection, supported by the same high-end components that define it.
The construction includes an oak bark structure, cork filler, and vegetable-tanned lining, allowing each pair to mould to the shape of the wearer’s foot over time. The heel has slightly less structure, giving a more relaxed feel that suits the look and wear of the shoe.
Conclusion
Dyneema denim is not leather, but it has its own integrity. It is tough, characterful, and rare, all qualities we respect. It is difficult to cut, demanding to sew, and takes a lot of time to work with. It can be every bit as strong-willed as those mad enough to try.
Like the unusual leathers we work with, it carries a challenge. It takes time, patience, and a willingness to understand it. In return, it offers strength, individuality, and the promise of ageing beautifully.
In the end, it is a little bit Crown Northampton and a little bit Heddels. Some might call it a Grand Union.
Browse the Grand Union Wholecut Sneaker
Thank you to everyone at Heddels for helping bring this project to life, and to everyone who keeps good craft moving forward.
