by Chris Woodford
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I have been crafting with Horween leather long before Crown Northampton was established.
So it made perfect sense to utilise its unique characteristics within our sneaker world. We started with Chromexcel in 2018 and introduced the rarer Shell Cordovan in 2020.
I have always appreciated the hard work, dedication and skill it takes to make these materials. To show that appreciation our team visited the tannery last year to interview Skip Horween for the rebirth of my family’s hand welted brand, E.Woodford & Sons. It led to many questions, a lot of learning, and even more questions, eventually resulting in this limited edition sneaker collection: The Horween X Crown Northampton Sports Collection.
I tend to see opportunities wherever I go and unfortunately for some, have the tendency to ask “why” quite a lot!
Whilst being given a tour by John Culliton of the Horween tannery, last October, I was fortunate to see a lot of sports leather being tanned. This observation sparked a conversation, that went something like this:
Me: "Why do you guys make the NFL leather?"
John: "It’s important to us. Arnold Horween Sr. played professionally and then coached the Harvard football team. We've been producing it for more than 70 years."
Me: "How is it different from Chromexcel, for example?"
John: "We use our own proprietary tannage and extracts to give it the unique character it needs for its purpose."
Me: "Cool, has it ever been used in a sneaker?"
John: "Nope."
Me: "How about the NBA leather?"
John: "Nope."
Me: "Is there something you guys can do to make it more suitable for footwear?"
John: "Maybe. We'd have to experiment a bit. We've modified other leathers with similar finishes before."
Me: "Actually, I'd prefer to use the actual leather that's normally used for the football and basketball."
John and a couple of other guys in the tannery: "OK, we could try softening it a bit and a few other techniques. Leave it with us."
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Six months later, during a factory meeting with a few of our team members at Crown Northampton who have a passion for US Sports, we closely examined a couple of bundles of genuine NBA and NFL Horween leather. We concluded that this leather could really work well for our purposes. It felt soft enough and seemed just as durable as the leather used in NFL and NBA balls. Amazed by the quality, we selected two of our Classic Overstone styles for each type of leather and we are really proud of the outcome. Big thanks to Louis and Lee for their knowledge and passion, which was crucial in helping to design these unique pieces!
'Courtside Overstone’ Derby Hi and Lo
The very same orange-toned leather used in Horween’s world famous basketballs, this limited edition features a black Chromexcel backstrip, black stitching and eyelets which are paired with a black sole to mirror the iconic ball’s design.
‘Quarterback’ Overstone Derby
Crafted from the rich red/brown leather used in Horween’s world famous American footballs. They feature brown eyelets and lacing that replicate the traditional football stitching and are finished with our classic white sole to match.
Shop the Horween X Crown Northampton Sports Collection
The most important aspect for me is collaborating with like-minded individuals. The stories of Horween and E.Woodford & Sons began just three years apart, yet due to the different origins and the visions of those that ran them our paths have taken different turns.
I find it reassuring to see how people from vastly different backgrounds can share such similar values and beliefs. Heritage, quality, and integrity matter; when these are prioritised, craftsmanship naturally comes first. After 120 years and five generations working across both sides of the Atlantic, our 2023 meet-up has led us to make these sneakers. I hope you enjoy wearing them as much as we enjoyed creating them!
Thanks to Nick, Skip, John and all the staff at Horween for working with us to make these possible.
Shop the Classic Sneaker Collection
Photography by Alex Natt