Japanese Oiled Shell Cordovan takes time to obtain and time to understand, which is why D14 has taken longer to reach us. This December we are offering three vibrant Shinki colours, with around ten pairs of each available. If you are not already part of the Crown community, you can join our mailing list to receive early notice of future limited editions.
For D14 we have been lucky to work with the rare and distinctive character of Shinki Hikaku. Japan has been central to our business for nearly fifteen years, and supplying Crown shoes to the market has taken us to places we might never have seen otherwise. One of them is Himeji, a well known tanning region a few hours south of Tokyo, home to Shinki Hikaku, a tannery that has produced cordovan of exceptional quality for more than seventy years.
Chris with Nitta-san at Shinki Hikaku. Two owners who share a commitment to craft.
Where the Leather Begins
Shinki uses the same raw material as Horween Shell Cordovan, sourced from the same region of Eastern Europe, yet the Japanese oiled version behaves very differently. The tannery produces two finishes. One is a glazed cordovan with a firm, high shine surface. The other is an oiled cordovan with a soft feel and a natural pull up that suits our more casual sneaker. The leather is tanned in pits for months before dyes are applied to tone the membrane, then finished by hand with oils that give the shell its softness and its distinctive pull-up character.
Pits where the butts are tanned for months, before dye is applied.
Oil applied to the leather giving it softness and distinctive pull up character
This tanning process allows us to choose lighter and more nuanced shades than those in our Horween collection, offering something different for this limited release. Blue, green and sunflower each show how the shade can shift across the shell. It becomes lighter where the leather is pulled over the last in our factory, and over time it will lighten further at pressure points as the oils move within the structure. Each pair will become unique to its wearer.
The leather lightens as it is pulled over the last and at certain pressure points as the oils move through the leather.
Cordovan is one of the most durable leathers in the world and deserves components that support it properly. We pair it with linings and materials that work in harmony with the upper, giving a fit and feeling that match the strength and character of the shell.
Beyond the Standard Offering
We are the factory, which means we can often explore possibilities beyond our standard offering. If you would like a pair of Shinki Cordovan in one of our other styles, please get in touch. The material is rare and availability depends on shell size, but we are always happy to discuss what may be possible.
For sizing, we have recently introduced a new guide to help you choose the right fit. If you have any questions, our in-factory fitting team is here to help. They work with our lasts every day and can offer precise guidance, whether you are ordering locally or from overseas.
Shinki Cordovan benefits from the right care, so we will include the appropriate polish with every pair of D14. The leather absorbs polish slowly, settling it into the fibres and developing a patina that becomes more individual with time. Looked after in this way, it will wear in gently and last for many years. When a resole is needed, we will welcome your sneakers back to Northampton. For the best longevity we recommend our Northampton made shoe trees, available at a discount when ordered with the sneakers.
Crown Northampton in Japan
We have had a long and meaningful relationship with our Japanese customers, built on a shared commitment to quality and careful craft. Our visit to Shinki reinforced that connection. Their cordovan takes months to produce and is shaped by techniques that have been refined over many generations, some of which can be traced back to the Edo period. The shells are dyed, waxed and finished by hand, and every stage reflects a level of patience and skill that sets the material apart. At Crown Northampton we aim to honour that craftsmanship in the way we cut, close and finish the leather in our own factory. The result brings together years of accumulated knowledge from both sides. Each pair reflects that combined history, and the story continues with the person who wears them.
Wearing Shinki Cordovan
Our feather edge belts are made here in Northampton and use the same Shinki Cordovan, backed with nubuck for a comfortable and reliable fit. A matching belt offers a simple way to carry the colour through the rest of your outfit. When purchased with the sneakers, the belt is available at a special price of £150. If you would like one, please note it at checkout or email us.
Shinki Cordovan has a depth that works across seasons. The sneakers can be worn with denim, with casual trousers or with relaxed tailoring, and each colour brings its own character. These shoes are designed to be worn often, and as the leather ages it becomes easier to wear, settling into your wardrobe in the same way it settles to the shape of your foot.
D14 begins in Himeji and is shaped again in Northampton, but its character emerges best once the shoes are worn. Each pair becomes its best version in the hands of its owner, and we look forward to seeing how yours develops…
