Each month we follow one of our shoes through the factory and tell the story of a customer wearing it. June's Shoe of the Month is the Ashby Loafer.
The very first customer loafer left the factory in May. Julie had collected hers in time for her late May holiday, and her pair gave us a good reason to show what goes into making one. The Unlined Collection is built differently to anything else we make, designed to be the softest range we have ever put together.
That slipper-like feel was what drew Julie to the samples on display in our showroom back in April. Her husband had come in to be measured for some Jazz shoes and Harlestone sneakers, Julie tried on a loafer sample while she was there, and there was not much left to decide. We measured her up and got to work, with her holiday on the calendar.
What follows is some of what that work looks like:
Every pair begins here. The full set of pieces, cut and laid out before any stitching begins.
Dearborn. Horween’s softest leather, ready to take the shape of the last.
Skiving. Thinning the edges where the leather will fold and meet.
The hidden structure goes in. A toe support, set inside the upper, that moulds to the shape of your foot as they are worn.
Yvey writing Julie's order on the leather. Unlined loafer, gum sole, size four, made in England. Details hidden inside every Crown Northampton shoe.
Yvey hand stitching the penny strap. Every stitch for a reason.
Working on the heel.
Every pair has its own paperwork. Notes from the measuring, the order details, anything the maker needs to know.
Yvey moves between hand and machine, depending on what each stitch needs.
Trimming the excess leather away.
The lasts. Made by Springline, the last remaining last makers in the UK, here in Northampton.
Lee lasting Julie's Loafers. Pulling the upper over the last is where the shoe finds its shape.
Kerry building up the sole, layer by layer.
The cork layer, drying on the rack. Over time it moulds to the shape of your foot.
Kerry attaching the Lactae Hevea sole. Natural rubber, with the give and grip that the Unlined Collection needed.
Ollie at the sidewall. The seam that holds sole and upper together for the long run.
Ollie in the finishing room fitting the veg-tanned insole, stamped Crown Northampton.
Made to order, direct from the maker
There are many benefits to every order being made to order, direct from the maker. In Julie's case, we adapted the patterns and the last to her feet before the rest of the team began making her pair. The result is a shoe that fits her, holds its shape, and softens with wear, made by the team whose hands you have just seen at work.
Julie, hope you had a great holiday in them!
