Using one of the rarest calf leathers we've ever encountered, we’ve carefully crafted, tested and brought to life a unique pair of Harlestone sneakers. Technically challenging, time-consuming, and costly, the result is our very own slice of modern history. This leather is so scarce that we only have enough left to make one pair - so for the first time in Crown Northampton’s history, we’re hosting a giveaway in partnership with Heddels!
75 years ago Horween leather Co. was timber-tanning calf leather in ways rarely used in modern times. Like the English oak bark-tanned leather used in our sneakers today, their process involved tanning pits and, most importantly, time.
Our fascination with these traditional tanning processes is supported by letters from Hermann Loewenstein, kindly shared with us by Nick Horween. We’ve also interviewed Andrew Parr, Crown Northampton’s supplier of English oak bark-tanned leather and captured his process on video, which you can view here.
From 1949 to today
These traditional tanning methods are a vital part of our history, but they also shape our future. As shoemakers, we see it as our responsibility at Crown Northampton to highlight these time-honoured techniques and the unparalleled quality they deliver. It reflects how and why we approach crafting our products to stand the test of time, and more importantly, why they are something to invest in.
During a visit to Horween, Chris (our owner) was invited to sign a piece of calf leather - an ongoing tradition for visitors to leave their mark. As Chris signed, the remarkable quality of the leather caught his attention. After a conversation with Skip Horween the idea of a challenge was born: could this 75 year old leather be turned into a sneaker?
The first job was to find a skin that was still in good enough condition for shoemaking from the few remaining ones. Luckily, with 30 years of leatherworking experience, Chris selected one he thought might work and sent it to our factory in Northampton for review.
We’ve worked with oak bark-tanned calf leather for years, so we’re familiar with how unique it feels. But the question remained: would a 75-year-old version still be usable? Pit tanning requires high-grade raw materials, as surface imperfections aren’t covered with spray, like cheaper leathers. Our skin had very few imperfections but did show plenty of growth marks (the faint lines you can see on the side of the sample sneaker photographed for the giveaway). These marks may have become more pronounced over time, which could be why the leather was set aside in favour of more uniform selections. However, for us, these marks add character, creating a unique pattern that makes this rare skin even more special.
Rare and remarkable
The skin itself is quite small, around 10 sq. ft., compared to standard calf leather, which is typically 18-20 sq. ft. A smaller animal means smaller hair follicles, resulting in a smoother feel, much like the baby calf leather we use in our Harlestone sneakers. A smaller skin also means thinner leather, but the pit tanning process strengthens it, allowing the tannins to absorb without weakening the fibres.
In short, the leather is rare due to its age, but more importantly, it’s exceptional in quality. This became clear the moment we started testing it. It passed our pull test with flying colours, needing no softeners to prevent the fibres from pulling apart - a big surprise for leather that has been sitting idle for so long. Its natural lustre is beautiful and will develop an even richer patina with wear, adding layers of your own history to this one-of-a-kind piece.
From our understanding of materials, we know quality doesn’t stop at the upper. With five generations of shoemaking behind us. every component in our sneakers is chosen for a reason. Being direct-to-consumer allows us to be transparent about why we select such valuable materials.
It made sense to pair this rare leather upper with our pit tanned oak bark structure for durability, along with 1.4mm double thickness vegetable tanned linings that mould to the foot over time. Plus, with our resole service this carefully repurposed leather won’t be heading to landfill anytime soon.
A huge thank you to Horween Leather Co. for allowing us to work with this remarkable piece of their history. This leather wasn’t originally intended for sneakers, but by pairing it with equally premium materials, we've transformed it into something truly special. It’s collaborations like this that allow us to create exceptional footwear that honours tradition while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in shoemaking.
How to win this one-of-a-kind-sneaker
This is your chance to own a truly unique piece of Crown Northampton history. The giveaway for these once-in-a-lifetime Harlestone sneakers goes live on Sunday 22nd September until Monday 30th September.
Good luck, and may the rarest sneaker in the world find its rightful owner!
