We love to shine a light on skills old and new - they are what shapes us. This limited edition is a touch of both. Heritage processes, still used to this day, are employed by two companies that have been around for over 100 years.
We are always looking for new ideas and leathers to craft and present to you. This limited edition came about from our latest Cordovan drop (D12, Western Floral), a project we began sampling 18 months ago. On a visit to the Horween Tannery in Chicago, Chris had the privilege of seeing Chromexcel leather being tanned. Part of the tour included seeing the large metal plates used for embossing the leather, giving it a more unique look. The idea was born to create a Cordovan leather with the print of our choice. With Cordovan's thickness of up to 2mm, it embossed beautifully. Of course, always thinking of new ideas led to the question: which other leather would emboss this well?
Chromexcel was the answer.
We’ve selected Black CXL for this pack, a nod to the first Chromexcel sneaker we launched in 2018. It marked a turning point for us, and we wanted to bring that rich, timeless black back for this special release. We’ve also chosen Green CXL, our Chromexcel addition from 2023, which offers a tone that feels rooted in nature and is subtle but striking.
The Western Floral pattern, created in the 1970s by Horween, brings a refined touch of heritage. We’ve applied it in a minimal way, embossing it onto the quarters of the shoe only. A quiet detail that adds texture and character without overpowering the clean lines of the sneaker, and a perfect match for the rich simplicity of the Classic Overstone Derby.
Horween CXL Tanning, Crown Crafting and What That Means for You
Creating Chromexcel leather at Horween involves hundreds of meticulous procedures over months. We've broken it down to make it easier to digest!
The process behind Horween’s Chromexcel leather blends two of the most highly regarded tanning methods: chrome tanning and vegetable tanning. These techniques combine to create leather that is not only durable and flexible but also beautifully rich in texture and depth, making it an ideal choice for a high-end sneaker like our CXL Floral Pack.
Here’s how the process works at Horween, and how it influences our work, explaining why it’s perfectly suited for these rare sneakers:
1. Quality Raw Materials
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Crown |
| US domestic suppliers provide top-quality cow hides, ensuring that we start with the best raw material possible. The hides selected for Chromexcel leather are those that have the least natural blemishes, providing a flawless canvas for the complex tanning process ahead. | Our focus is on selecting the best leather for clean, natural-looking sneakers. The quality of the leather plays a crucial role in the clicking room when choosing where to place the patterns for the most visually striking results. This ensures the leather’s natural beauty shines through, creating a final product that is as functional as it is stunning. |
2. It’s All in the Prep
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Crown |
| The leather is first split into sides (cut in half), then the lime and flesh processes clean the lumps and bumps, resulting in a smoother, more uniform finish. The Bating and Pickling process prepares the leather for tanning by preserving its moisture and ensuring it remains pliable throughout the lengthy process. | Working with half hides makes handling much easier, especially when the leather is heavy. The smoother the leather, the easier it is to work with during the prep, skiving, and marking phases, ensuring a better fit and finish once the shoe is assembled. The more preserved the leather is, the longer the sneakers will last, and the more it will continue to perform beautifully with wear. |
3. First Tanning Phase – Chrome
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Crown |
| Chrome salts are applied to the hides with precise concentrations, temperatures, run times, and pH levels. This process transforms the leather into a soft, supple, and durable material, known as "wet blue." It's this initial phase that gives Chromexcel leather its characteristic smoothness and flexibility. | The more the leather is worked during the factory process, the softer and more supple it becomes, thanks to the chrome tanning method. This allows the leather to be easily shaped to the last, giving the final product its high-quality, long-lasting durability. A durable leather means the customer benefits from a shoe that is comfortable, stylish, and built to last. |
Shaping leather to the last
4. Sorting
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Crown |
| After tanning, the wet blue hides are carefully sorted for quality. This process ensures that only the best grain character, weight, and thickness are selected for each batch. | For our CXL Floral Pack, we requested a thickness of 2–2.2mm, striking the perfect balance. The leather needs to be thin enough to sculpt and shape but thick enough to hold an intricate embossing pattern and last a lifetime. The result is leather that’s strong, yet flexible enough to adapt to the natural contours of the foot. |
Chromexcel under the microscope. Here, the grain and fine structure can be visualised.
5. Second Tanning Phase – Vegetable
Horween |
Crown |
| During the vegetable tanning phase, bark extracts and natural agents are used to enhance the leather's structure and appearance. This process, known as retannage, gives Chromexcel its distinct patina effect - something that sets this leather apart from others. | The ability to heat and use moisture during this process is a dream for our hand lasters. It allows the leather to be moulded into shape, hugging the last to perfection. This stage ensures that the shoes, when they leave us, are in the ideal state to mould to the customer’s foot, becoming more comfortable and unique with each wear. |
The distinct patina effect unique to Chromexcel leather
6. Hot Stuffing
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Crown |
| The hides are then impregnated with a mixture of oils, waxes, and greases - a process known as hot stuffing. This treatment gives the leather its signature "pull-up" effect. When you press or bend the leather, the oils and waxes temporarily displace, lightening the colour and creating a distinctive, textured look. | One of the standout features of Chromexcel leather is its pull-up. Even when it’s embossed, this feature comes through, giving each sneaker its own unique look. The rich, tactile qualities provide an individual touch, ensuring that every pair is as unique as the wearer. This is the beauty of the material - it doesn’t just get better with age, it becomes entirely its own. Aligning with our mantra: individual shoes for individual people. |
7. Embossing
Horween |
Crown |
| The key to a successful emboss is heat, pressure, and timing. With Chromexcel leather, this process is carefully calibrated to achieve a strong, durable emboss. The leather must hold just the right amount of moisture for the emboss to be both deep and defined, without distorting or compromising the leather. | For us, embossing is an art form. It’s about ensuring the design works for the sneaker. The embossing must add something to the shoe, both aesthetically and functionally. It has to be perfect. We want to say, “This is the right way of doing it.” Our embossed sneakers are backed by the craftsmanship and quality materials that Northampton is known for. |
Belt and Off-Cuts Card Holder to Match
For those who like to complete the set, we also offer a belt and Off-Cuts card holder to match the CXL Floral Pack sneakers. Crafted from the same premium Chromexcel leather, these accessories are made to last and pair seamlessly with your sneakers.
Belt: £110 (when bought with shoes usual price £160)
Card Holder: £30
Both are available upon request, offering a practical way to carry the same quality and style in your daily essentials.
A Note on Care
Caring for your CXL Western Floral Pack is straightforward and no different than caring for standard CXL leather. With proper care, these sneakers will last many a resole and continue to look their best for years to come. For a complete solution, check out our Forest Green Chromexcel Care Bundle and Black Chromexcel Care Bundle for everything you need to keep your CXL sneakers in top condition.
For the Connoisseurs: The Rarest of the Rare
For the rarest of the rare leather, check out D12. Follow the link to learn more about our Bourbon Shell Cordovan and the exclusive Western Floral pattern.
