We are launching a new leather to sit within our Classic Collection, made from the back half of the horsehide, presented in a way we have not worked with before. It is the sort of leather you do not come across every day, so of course we had to have it. By new, we mean hundreds of years of knowledge, from Horween in Chicago to our workshop in Northampton, shaped into a modern Crown make up.
Limited to 30 pairs. We hope to secure more later in the year. For now, this is all we have.
A Note From Chris:
“It is a privilege seeing how passionate Skip and his team are about crafting the best they can. That ethos mirrors our own, and it is often the starting point for where we go next. Chicago heritage passed to Northampton heritage, rare and wonderful leathers, presented by the finest shoemakers.”
Chris and Skip Horween identified the 'North of Cordovan' horsehide strips on Crown's recent visit to the Horween tannery in Chicago, US.
Horween Horsehide Strips, And Why They Work So Well for Sneakers
Often referred to as ‘north of cordovan’, or horse butt strips, Skip Horween introduced this leather to Chris, alongside one of his technicians, to talk through why it would be right up our alley.
After cordovan, it is the densest part of the hide, which is music to a shoemaker’s ears. More density means more strength, more durability, and better water resistance. It is highly sought after for small leather goods. It is tanned for around a month alongside Horween’s Shell Cordovan, before being separated for different finishing processes.
Usually, this part of the hide ends up too firm for footwear. In this case, Horween have vegetable tanned it, tumbled it, and finished it with their own casein treatment. In fact, three versions are applied to this rather unique leather.
'North of Cordovan' comes from the area just above where Shells are cut - shown here in the area labelled 'Strip'.
Chris Woodford talks through the 'North of Cordovan' material and how it is used to construct the Overstone Derby and Upton Wholecut.
What is casein, you might ask….
According to Skip, it is an old glazing compound from years ago. It is a traditional protein-based coating, derived from milk protein, which produces a natural, breathable, high sheen on leather without a plastic look. It will soften and mould to the foot, whilst also having strong self-healing properties when it picks up scuffs and scratches. Spot on, we say.
Why Horsehide Strips Are Perfect For Crown Northampton
Scale:
To give you an idea, the box calf we use in our Classic Collection runs to around 20 square feet per hide. These strips are four to five square feet each. Small pieces make cutting more costly and more selective. It is one reason leathers like this rarely appear in footwear. We are product-first here. The price is a result of making the best we can, not working backwards from a price point that rules out materials like this.
Variation:
We love it when each pair we cut is unique. Every strip varies in size and grain, so your second pair is as individual as your first.
Rarity:
Being a small piece of leather means there is not much of it. All Skip had was what we bought. There is something special about that. It is certainly not a material for mass production.
Properties:
Most important to us is making something with real value, which means it needs to stand up to wear, as well as look the part. Each strip has its own grain and a slight pull-up, with a dense fibre structure, but it is still soft enough to break in quickly.
'North of Cordovan' Overstone Derby in Tan Horween horse strip leather.
'North of Cordovan' Upton Wholecut in Tan Horween horse strip leather.
Horsehide For The Classic Collection
After assessing its properties and sampling a few styles, we decided to present this limited material in two of our classic patterns. The Overstone Derby, because it is one of our most popular. And the Upton Wholecut, because we do like to wind up our clickers. What is a job without an extra challenge or two?
Both styles are cut as minimally as possible. The only stitches you see are there for structure. It is the best way to let the leather do the talking.
If you would like to try it in another style, please feel free to get in touch.
How To Care for the Leather
A light touch works best. Use shoe trees and brush the uppers regularly to lift dust and keep the finish clear. If they need cleaning, use a slightly damp cloth and keep water to a minimum, then let them dry naturally away from heat. Avoid harsh detergents or strong cleaners. If you use a cleaner at all, keep it mild and use it sparingly.
How To Wear It
It happens to be the Year of the Horse. A cultural coincidence, but a fitting one, given this release is built around rare horsehide. Consider it a nudge to put them straight into rotation once they arrive, and let the leather pick up its story during the Year of the Horse.
The casein finish helps. It has a high sheen, it wears well, and it tends to settle back nicely as it picks up scuffs along the way.
Let the finish and grain lead, and keep the outfit simple. This tan tone is an easy colour to live with. It sits well with denim, navy, grey, olive, and natural knitwear. The leather has enough presence on its own. Over time, the surface will settle and take on its character.
Shop North of Cordovan Limited Edition Now
