Horween Shell Cordovan is rare. The amount produced each year depends on two things: the ability to source the raw hides - which are in increasing decline - and the six-month tanning process that can’t be rushed. At Crown Northampton, we’re fortunate to be one of the very few who’ve built a relationship with Horween long enough, and strong enough, to consistently access their rarest colours.
For Drop 12, we wanted to push that rarity even further.
We’ve collaborated with Horween to apply one of their most storied embosses, Western Floral, to Bourbon Shell Cordovan - creating something entirely new. A material already prized for its depth, lustre, and strength, now made even more distinctive. You won’t find this anywhere else, and once the 20 pairs are gone, they won’t be repeated.
Western Floral Bourbon Shell Cordovan
Limited to 20 hand-numbered pairs
A 1970s Pattern on a Material That Goes Back a Century
Chris, our owner, was first introduced to Horween’s archive of embossing plates on a visit to the Chicago tannery. Each design has its own story and purpose and enhances the leather in different ways. The Western Floral - created in the 1970s, most often used on cowboy boots - immediately stood out. A striking, heritage-rich pattern that felt somehow both nostalgic and new.
We chose it not to go bold, but to go subtle. On the Harlestone Hand Stitch, it sits quietly on the quarters - letting the natural character of the leather speak while catching the light just enough to make you look twice.
Embossed to Endure
Embossing only works if the leather can hold it, which impacts the design decision. Large metal plates, heated and pressed, activate the fibres of the leather and leave a permanent impression. And with Shell Cordovan’s dense structure (often up to 2mm thick), the result is crisp, textured, and deeply defined. Cordovan takes embossing beautifully.
Why Bourbon?
Bourbon is one of Horween’s most complex colours to tan. It’s light enough to reveal all the natural variation between shells, and rich enough to carry this heritage pattern without becoming too loud. In sunlight, it shifts. In shadow, it deepens. It’s cordovan for summer 2025! Floral, tactile, and built to age beautifully.
The Technical Shapes the Design
Shoemaking in Northampton has always been a craft - but every now and then, it edges into something closer to art. Embossed cordovan brings the two together. While the results are striking, it still needs to function: these are shoes, after all. They’re made to be worn, not just admired. Our clickers, tasked with cutting the panels, have to adapt.
Technically speaking, that means making smart design decisions. We’ve kept the front of the sneaker in natural, unembossed cordovan for a reason. The toe is a high-pressure point - pulling and lasting processes can soften the emboss. Embossing also tightens the leather’s fibre structure, which can make it too rigid to form a clean feather edge. By balancing both embossed and unembossed panels, we preserve the integrity of the design and the comfort of the shoe.
It’s a small design choice that makes a big difference. A meeting point between function and form. The kind of decision only a maker would think about.
"It’s a meeting of craft and engineering with a nod to heritage. Practical art!"
— Chris Woodford
Hand-Numbered. Never to Be Repeated.
Each pair of Drop 12 sneakers will be hand-numbered 1 - 20. They’ll never be restocked or repeated in this exact combination of colour and pattern. As with all our limited releases, once they’re gone - they’re gone.
How to Care for the Summer Shoes of 2025
Our latest Shell Cordovan releases in Bourbon are designed to soften, shift and shine with wear, but like all good things, they need a little looking after. Thankfully, it doesn’t take much. A soft cloth, the right brush, and the right product will go a long way. You can find everything you need in our recommended care bundle for Shell Cordovan in Bourbon.
Naturally, it grew into something more…
This collaboration led us to further explore the fusion of classic patterns with contemporary craftsmanship. For those seeking a different hue, we've expanded our offering with the CXL Floral Pack - featuring the same intricate Western Floral embossing on premium Horween Chromexcel leather. Limited to 40 pairs of Overstone Derbys, this collection provides an alternative palette while maintaining the distinctive character and quality synonymous with Crown Northampton.
Read more about the CXL Floral Pack here.
D12: A 1970s Horween print integrated into a modern Crown silhouette. We hope you like what we’ve made.
